David,
Here are a couple of Carl's paragraphs from the article on elongating the
clutch connecting rod (diagram references not included):
"The connecting rod that actuates the clutch is too short. When the clutch
linkage is adjusted correctly, the clutch adjusting nut is generally screwed
in to the end of its adjustment. Many times it will bottom out against the
hex. Worse than that, the front lever is now in such an extreme clockwise
position (RHD vehicle) that it bends the threaded rod. The bending occurs
when the clutch pedal is depressed and the lever is thus required to rotate
further clockwise. The nut and rod interfere with the lever. Phooey!
Elongating the connecting rod, sat 5/8", moves the adjusting nut out toward
the center of its adjustment range -- cheers! It also rotates the lever
counterclockwise to a position where it can no longer interfere with the
threaded rod."
"This "end of adjustment' problem can occur with both the cable and rod
mechanisms. Whether it occurs, and how bad it is depends upon the tolerance
build up in the clutch linkage. The drawing in the factory Workshop Manual
displays a nicely adjusted linkage. Notice how the lever and its adjusting
nut are somewhere near the center of their adjusting range -- cheers.
Unfortunately, this desirable condition is seldom (never) attained using
factory supplied parts."
Ben
54 TF 1500
----- Original Message -----
From: David Tinker <david.tinker@virgin.net>
To: lbprince <lbprince@email.msn.com>; <mgs@autox.team.net>;
<mg-t@autox.team.net>; Ronald Olds <tr6@pipeline.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 21, 2000 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: TD Clutch Linkage
> Did Carl say why the rod should be extended by 5/8".
> Thanks
> David Tinker
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: lbprince <lbprince@email.msn.com>
> To: <mgs@autox.team.net>; <mg-t@autox.team.net>; Ronald Olds
> <tr6@pipeline.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 20, 2000 10:44 PM
> Subject: Re: TD Clutch Linkage
>
>
> > Ron,
> >
> > According to an excellent article by Carl Cederstrand a couple of years
> ago,
> > he points out that the clutch adjustment link should be extended by
about
> > 5/8". Carl is a guru in the Vintage MG Club of Southern California.
> >
> > A subsequent letter by Bill Link of the California MG T-Register points
> out
> > an easy way to elongate:
> >
> > 1) Saw off about two inches from one end of the adjustment tube.
> > 2) Stick a piece of rod into the tube positioning the cut ends about
5/8"
> > apart and weld the rod to the tube ends.
> > 3) Keep the two clevises at the end of the link in the same plane.
> >
> > Ben
> > 54 TF 1500
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Ronald Olds <tr6@pipeline.com>
> > To: <mgs@autox.team.net>; <mg-t@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Friday, October 20, 2000 12:06 PM
> > Subject: TD Clutch Linkage
> >
> >
> > > I thought i was going to be doing something simple on the car today
but
> as
> > > usual things haven't turned out as planned.
> > >
> > > I'm connecting the clutch linkage and have a couple of questions. I
have
> > > welded up the holes in the clutch link and the lever and redrilled
back
> to
> > > the proper size. I have purchased a new clutch rod because the old one
> had
> > > been mangled and repaired several times. With all of the rods
connected
> > the
> > > lever (on the oil pan) points to the 6:00 position. According to Horst
> > > Schach's manual it should be pointing to the 8:00 position to be most
> > > effective. I don't believe I'm getting full travel of the pedal. It
> looks
> > > like the clutch link is too short. Mine measures 14 inches between the
> > > center of the clevis pin holes. It looks like it should be about 3/8"
> > > longer. Can someone possible measure their and let me know the proper
> > > length? Also where does the spring attach to the lever?
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance for the help.
> > > Ron Olds
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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