See notes below:
MY QUESTIONS: 1) There is a small hole on the end of the pedal shaft,
but apparently RHD cars didn't have a greaser. Is this correct ? How
is the pedal shaft kept lubbed ? I know that the shaft doesn't rotate
like LHD cars, but how is the darn thing lubbed ?
Don't have a RHD, so I can't answer. But I would assume things are the same,
just mirrored.
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2) Prior to removal, the clutch pedal depressed and returned to full
upright (despite the absence of the return spring, which I found missing
when I compared my pieces to the Workshop manual). After pedal removal,
the clutch shaft in the bottom of the bell housing just sort of flops
back and forth. When I look inside the inspection cover, I can see the
release bearing move back and forth, but shouldn't the clutch cover
return rearward too ?
Yes. The plate against which the release bearing bears, should show some
slight movement when free. I would believe either the clutch disk is frozen
or the clutch bearing mechanism is frozen.
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3) Is this an indication that the clutch plate is frozen to the facce of
the flywheel ?
If so, how can I get it 'unstuck' (drop the tranny and clutch ??) I've
read about driving in 2nd gear and mashing on the brakes to break it
loose, but that won'e at this point. Honest, the clutch seemed to work
before !
I wouldn't even consider reassembling the car without disassembling these
parts and having a good look. No doubt you'll be able to see the problem and
solve it. Otherwise we're just speculating.
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4) Okay, so I should have broken the rear axle nut loose before I went
that far, but I was giving the PB Blaster some time to loosen up the
castellated nut so I went forward. I stuck the prop shaft back in
hoping that while in gear the prop shaft would keep the rear end locked
-- but the clutch problem above !!! So how can I keep the rear axle
from rotating when I try and loosen the nut ?? (tightening up the
brakes doesn't give a positive enough hold).
You need to buy or make a pin wrench. This is most easily done by drilling
and tapping two holes in the end of a 3/4" angle iron about 3 feet long.
Into these holes screw two bolts about 1 inch long which are spaced the same
as two of the holes in the pinion drive flange. Use the pin wrench to hold
the flange from turning and remove the nut with your socket wrench. This is
not recommended, since it relieves the pre-load on the diff. And, you seem
to want to break things loose at the clutch, not the diff.
Again, I recommend you remove the clutch and transmission from the engine
and inspect everything. The problem and solution is likely to be obvious.
Regards,
Lew Palmer
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