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Re: FW: Ring Gear for Tilton Aluminum Flywheel

To: "Roadster List" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: FW: Ring Gear for Tilton Aluminum Flywheel
From: Ronnie Day <ronday@home.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Nov 2000 13:23:43 -0600
>Speaking of aluminum flywheels, what's the concensus on these? Are they good 
>for a street car? Are there any vibration problems? Are you better off going 
>with a lightened stock flywheel?
>Who out there is using them? I'm taking my 68 down soon to rebuild motor and 
>trans, and while it's apart, would like to upgrade if that's the way to go. I 
>know it allows the engine to rev quicker, but is there really that much of 
>an advantage?

Seems to me that it's the weight of the flywheel that matters more than 
the material. It's also obvious that an aluminum unit will usually be 
lighter. Some of the real engineer types can address how much effect, if 
any, the distance of the weight from the middle of the flywheel has on 
how the engine revs. The heavier the flywheel, the easier it's going to 
be to get a car moving, but transmission ratio, differential ratio and 
tire diameter also play into this. For our E/P 510 I have the Tilton 
flywheel using the 20111 HD roadster pressure plate on an L-18, medium 
port (1 1/2 inch) head, 260 degree/.500 lift cam, and 38mm SUs or 40 DCOE 
Webers. Initially we'll be running either the OEM sedan 4 spd (3.382-1st) 
or a station wagon 4 spd (3.657-1st), a 4.38 LSD diff., and 20 inch tall 
tires. This is not a dual purpose car. All of these pieces are designed 
to get the engine revving as quickly and easily as possible in 
competition. For a street or dual purpose car you can probably get more 
consistent/usable performance gain from a lower diff ratio, shorter 
tires, maybe both. The shorter tires will also lower the car slightly. 

If there's enough material, cutting down the OEM flywheel probably can't 
hurt, but remember balance is critical to smooth operation. Have both 
operations done by a quality shop, not at Auto Zone. I'm of the opinion 
that balancing the flywheel and pressure plate individually is better 
than balancing them as a unit. The Tilton flywheels have a steel insert 
for the disk to ride against. I have seen other aluminum flywheels with 
sprayed on friction surfaces. Not as good, IMHO. Unless something real 
bad happens you shouldn't be replacing the flywheel, but pressure plates 
do wear out. The Tilton unit is a real work of art. Not inexpensive, but 
what is on these cars anymore? 

Bottom line, what are you looking for? How/where are you going to be 
driving the car? Define your goal before you decide how best to get 
there. Too often those two are reversed. Been there, done that. I think 
you'll be more satisfied with the results.

FWIW, Ron


Ronnie Day
ronday@home.com
------------------
Dallas/Ft. Worth
------------------
'71 510 2-dr (Prepared Class Autocrosser)
'73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)

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