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If the outer edges of the floor pan is good then you can cut and patch in a
new floor pan.
If not then tub off.
If inner rocker is bad, tub off.
Depends on where the bad area is.
I am doing one now that had a small area but it ran under the firewall and
the frame was also in the way. Plus I wanted to blast the frame, so we took
the body off.
I can see 10K with paint for floors, battery box, would have to see inner
fender.
I have been putting silicone in every TR6 that crosses my path for the last
15 years.
Al
On Jun 9, 2015 4:55 PM, "James_ via 6pack" <6pack@autox.team.net> wrote:
> Hi all=E2=80=A6
>
> First=E2=80=A6.I am so depressed - I may sell the TR6 and walk
> away=E2=80=A6.seriously=E2=80=A6even after 22 years of my entire adult li=
fe.
>
> I just met and got a quote from a guy that generally works on Austin
> Healey's=E2=80=A6and I gather he does very high end work=E2=80=A6.and acc=
ustom to people
> with deep pockets.
> So that was probably my mistake, but still is probably the best approach
> to have work done 100% thorough and correct.
>
> First: I was told floor pans require the car body to be off the frame to
> replace.
> First overwhelming thought=E2=80=A6body of the car? ugh.
>
> Second: I have a few bad spots of rust that need panels fabricated and
> welded. The worse is under the master cylinder and rust has
> eaten through the inner and outer wheel arch. It affects the pedal box to=
o.
> (I can send a picture if anyone is interested)
>
> So the guy was really wanting the body removed, sand blasted, panels
> repaired and powder coated.
> Sounds awesome. But it all gets down to time and money. a LOT of money an=
d
> the rest of the year.
> Roughly, looking at $10-20K. for a TR6. yikes. Not sure I love the car
> that much. I know repairing old cars will ALWAYS cost more than a car is
> worth.
> I know that. Don't lecture about that. But...my rust is not a 'rust
> bucket' by any means. And for $20K I can find a car that comes close to
> showroom condition!!!
>
> I guess I am so depressed / disappointed / overwhelmed / sad / hmmmm=E2=
=80=A6.what
> else=E2=80=A6
>
> =E2=80=A6I am at a loss as to what to do. One option: Say screw it and li=
ve with
> the rotten areas, put the car back to gather and drive it.
> or:
> Sell the dang thing and walk away. Maybe I finally reached that
> "mercy=E2=80=A6mercy=E2=80=A6no more=E2=80=A6make it stop" stage.
> - I doubt I could bring myself to buy a TR6 again=E2=80=A6.I mean, what's=
the
> point. Mine isn't THAT awful and I know the history of THIS car.
>
> Or:
> another option=E2=80=A6.(my original desire/thought) is to have the areas=
repaired
> and new floor boards installed by someone that does a really good welding
> job
> but not nearly as intense of a procedure or expensive. I know=E2=80=A6you=
get
> what you pay for.
>
> This winter: I removed everything from the engine to detail it out and
> everything is ready to go back in once the rust was fixed and engine bay
> painted.
> At this point, I may as well sell off all the PARTS - they'd be worth mor=
e
> they the car as a whole at this point. And everything is removed!
> (only half kidding=E2=80=A6.)
>
>
> Oh, one more thing=E2=80=A6.
> this guy is DEAD set against my thought of switching to Silicone brake
> fluid. I mean, DEAD set against and talking about warranty being voided i=
f
> I use it.
> I looked at him and said: "What Warranty is that?" "It isn't like there i=
s
> a dealership I can go to" "I buy parts, I put them on." I am the warranty
> department!
> He mentioned the warranty of the parts I buy from Moss, etc. hmmmm=E2=80=
=A6.They
> void it if the silicone falls the parts.
> Really? Moss SELLS Silicone brake fluid.
> I suspect all this is because his DAD is against Silicone and he just
> follows what his dad hates.
>
> I was recently curious why auto stores don't seem to carry DOT 5 Silicone
> as much as the other types. So now with this restoration guy's comments=
=E2=80=A6is
> Silicone THAT bad/poorly rated?
>
> Well, any advice or words of comfort?
>
> James
>
> 1976 TR6
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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--001a1149020edccc8905181d7186
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<p dir=3D"ltr">If the outer edges of the floor pan is good then you can cut=
and patch in a new floor pan.<br>
If not then tub off.<br>
If inner rocker is bad, tub off.<br>
Depends on where the bad area is.<br>
I am doing one now that had a small area but it ran under the firewall and =
the frame was also in the way. Plus I wanted to blast the frame, so we took=
the body off.<br>
I can see 10K with paint for floors, battery box, would have to see inner f=
ender.<br>
I have been putting silicone in every TR6 that crosses my path for the last=
15 years.<br>
Al</p>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Jun 9, 2015 4:55 PM, "James_ via 6pack&q=
uot; <<a href=3D"mailto:6pack@autox.team.net">6pack@autox.team.net</a>&g=
t; wrote:<br type=3D"attribution"><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Hi all=E2=80=A6</div><div><br></div><div>First=
=E2=80=A6.<span style=3D"font-size:12pt">I am so depressed - I may sell the=
TR6 and walk away=E2=80=A6.seriously=E2=80=A6even after 22 years of my ent=
ire adult life.</span></div><div><br></div><div>I just met and got a quote =
from a guy that generally works on Austin Healey's=E2=80=A6and I gather=
he does very high end work=E2=80=A6.and accustom to people with deep pocke=
ts.</div><div>So that was probably my mistake, but still is probably the be=
st approach to have work done 100% thorough and correct.</div><div><br></di=
v><div>First: I was told floor pans require the car body to be off the fram=
e to replace.</div><div>First overwhelming thought=E2=80=A6body of the car?=
ugh.</div><div><br></div><div>Second: I have a few bad spots of rust that =
need panels fabricated and welded. The worse is under the master cylinder a=
nd rust has</div><div>eaten through the inner and outer wheel arch. It affe=
cts the pedal box too.</div><div>(I can send a picture if anyone is interes=
ted)</div><div><br></div><div>So the guy was really wanting the body remove=
d, sand blasted, panels repaired and powder coated.</div><div>Sounds awesom=
e. But it all gets down to time and money. a LOT of money and the rest of t=
he year.</div><div>Roughly, looking at $10-20K. for a TR6. yikes. Not sure =
I love the car that much. I know repairing old cars will ALWAYS cost more t=
han a car is worth.</div><div>I know that. Don't lecture about that. Bu=
t...<span style=3D"font-size:12pt">my rust is not a 'rust bucket' b=
y any means. And for $20K I can=C2=A0</span><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=
find a car</span><span style=3D"font-size:12pt">=C2=A0that=C2=A0</span><spa=
n style=3D"font-size:12pt">comes close to showroom condition!!!</span></div=
><div><br></div><div>I guess I am so depressed / disappointed / overwhelmed=
/ sad / hmmmm=E2=80=A6.what else=E2=80=A6</div><div><br></div><div>=E2=80=
=A6I am at a loss as to what to do. One option: Say screw it and live with =
the rotten areas, put the car back to gather and drive it.</div><div><span =
style=3D"font-size:12pt">or:</span></div><div>Sell the dang thing and walk =
away. Maybe I finally reached that "mercy=E2=80=A6mercy=E2=80=A6no mor=
e=E2=80=A6make it stop" stage.</div><div>- I doubt I could bring mysel=
f to buy a TR6 again=E2=80=A6.I mean, what's the point. Mine isn't =
THAT awful and =C2=A0<span style=3D"font-size:12pt">I know the history of T=
HIS car.</span></div><div><span style=3D"font-size:12pt"><br></span></div><=
div><div>Or:</div><div>another option=E2=80=A6.(my original desire/thought)=
is to have the areas repaired and new floor boards installed by someone th=
at does a really good welding job=C2=A0</div><div>but not nearly as intense=
of a procedure=C2=A0<font size=3D"3">or expensive. I know</font>=E2=80=A6<=
font size=3D"3">you get what you pay for.=C2=A0</font></div></div><div><fon=
t size=3D"3"><br></font></div><div>This winter: I removed everything from t=
he engine to detail it out and everything is ready to go back in once the r=
ust was fixed and engine bay painted.</div><div>At this point, I may as wel=
l sell off all the PARTS - they'd be worth more they the car as a whole=
at this point. And everything is removed!</div><div>(only half kidding=E2=
=80=A6.)</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Oh, one more thing=E2=80=
=A6.</div><div>this guy is DEAD set against my thought of switching to Sili=
cone brake fluid. I mean, DEAD set against and talking about warranty being=
voided if I use it.</div><div>I looked at him and said: "What Warrant=
y is that?" "It isn't like there is a dealership I can go to&=
quot; "I buy parts, I put them on." I am the warranty department!=
</div><div>He mentioned the warranty of the parts I buy from Moss, etc. hmm=
mm=E2=80=A6.They void it if the silicone falls the parts.</div><div>Really?=
Moss SELLS Silicone brake fluid.=C2=A0</div><div>I suspect all this is bec=
ause his DAD is against Silicone and he just follows what his dad hates.=C2=
=A0</div><div><br></div><div>I was recently curious why=C2=A0<font size=3D"=
3">auto stores don't seem to carry DOT 5 Silicone as much as the other =
types. So now with this restoration guy's comments</font>=E2=80=A6<font=
size=3D"3">is Silicone THAT bad/poorly rated?</font></div><div><br></div><=
div>Well, any advice or words of comfort?</div><div><br></div><div>James</d=
iv><div><br></div><div>1976 TR6=C2=A0</div><div><br></div>
</div=
></div>
<br>_______________________________________________<br>
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<br></blockquote></div>
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