John,
Remove all three of the bolts and tap from below the cover with a drift
or dull chisel and hammer. Also tap the sides of the cover. It should
free up. You might want to prelube with PB Blaster or a similar product.
A little heat on the steel cover should not hurt anything.....just be
careful as it is aluminum underneath the cover.
Good Luck,
Jay Welch, Abington MA
1971 TR6 project
1973 TR6 driver - wanting to "Drive it Hard"
Member "Cape Cod British Car Club" @
http://clubs.hemmings.com/capecodbritish/
On Sun, 23 Sep 2001 22:43:44 EDT Fish63@aol.com writes:
> Dick,
>
> FYI, the cap has no J-shaped notches. Just a cap with 4 holes: 3
> around the
> outside for the nut and adjustment screws and one on the top for the
>
> gear-shift to exit. I still believe that the cap is help on by
> corrosion.
> Will take your advice and remove other components once transmission
> is
> removed from the vehicle. Will let you know what happens.
>
> Thanks for your sage advice,
>
> John
>
> In a message dated 09/22/2001 11:03:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> tr6taylor@webtv.net writes:
>
>
> > John---I would hesitate to use any heat to help the cap off (but
> not for
> > long)! You should be able to see which way to turn this cap by the
> > J-shaped notch on both sides. I believe it is CCW. It sounds like
> a DPO
> > didn't understand the reassembly, and may have used a sealant
> between
> > the cap and the top cover housing. With the transmission cover
> off, you
> > should be able to remove the eight bolts that hold the top cover.
> By
> > doing this, the gearshift lever, the stubborn cap, and the top
> cover
> > will now be off and on your work bench, where it will be easier to
> use
> > 'alernative methods' to remove this cap.
> >
> > Dick T.
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