[TR] TR4 Hood Badge

Don Hiscock don.hiscock at gmail.com
Mon Feb 17 14:03:26 MST 2020

Well, I didn't have my car for the first nineteen years of its life, and it
had apron bodywork when I got it.  Who knows for sure what was original to
its build.  TR3Bs are their own animal sometimes in esoteric ways the parts
manual doesn't always catch.

For example, the main gauges on every TR3B I've checked have "two piece"
clamps like a TR4, not the single U-clamp like a TR3A.  What's the SPM4E
say it should have?

Where TR3B rules are concerned, there are no rules!

On Mon, Feb 17, 2020 at 2:44 PM Randall <TR3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > The badge mounting holes on the apron currently on my TR3B
> > (not the original, which was upgraded to this one thirty five
> > years ago) are slightly out of round.  The original style
> > inserts would never have worked.  For a few years I had the
> > flat spring speed nuts on the mounting posts, and the badge
> > was tight with no movement.  But I hate those things.
> I'm confused, Don.  Weren't the original fasteners on a 3B "flat spring
> speed nuts"? P/N FP1005?
> TR4 went to FP1012/9 according to my book, but that's still what I would
> call a "flat spring" nut.  Same thing is listed for 4A.
> https://i.imgur.com/tbm4dTT.jpg
> > A few years ago I threaded (carefully) with a die the posts
> > on my reproduction badge and it's now mounted with nyloc nuts
> > and plastic washers.
> FWIW, I found some "speed nuts" that have hex flats, so you can turn them
> down the posts without having to cut threads separately.  They have a bit
> of
> spring to them, so can hold the badge tightly.  The studs on my badge
> seemed
> pretty soft, and the plating was rough, so I wasn't confident it would hold
> machine threads.  The speed nuts have worked quite well, and are removable.
> (MMC calls them "push nuts")
> https://www.mcmaster.com/90533a115
> > I am thinking I need to shave
> > one of the holes on a top or bottom side to increase
> > length between holes. I know this may allow badge to shift after install,
> but
> My suggestion would be to use a small round file, and do multiple test
> fits,
> to remove the absolute minimum metal required from the holes.  Put some
> touch-up paint in the holes, then use the nuts I linked to.
> I've still got 98 of them in the box and not likely to ever use more than a
> few.  If anyone wants a couple, contact me off-list.
> -- Randall
> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
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