[TR] TR4 Won't Start

[Randall]

While at the same time, the stock TR4 distributor cap does not work well with "carbon core" wires.
-- Randall

On 13 June 2019 07:11:44 GMT-06:00, Jerry Van Vlack <jerryvv at roadrunner.com> wrote:
>What type plug wires are you using? Some Pertronic units will not work
>well with solid copper wires and only work using resistor type wires.
>
>From: Andrew Uprichard 
>Sent: Thursday, June 13, 2019 8:57 AM
>To: 'Keith Richard Stewart' ; triumphs at autox.team.net 
>Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Won't Start
>
>Hey, Keith:
>
> 
>
>I think we are still in “information gathering mode” J
>
> 
>
>You say “there were only 3 cylinders getting spark”, but then “I also
>had spark on #2, #3, and #4”, so it sounds like you do have a spark at
>all 4 plugs?  One thing you do not mention is the state of the plugs: 
>are they wet and fouled, suggesting flooding?
>
> 
>
>Have you done a compression test?
>
> 
>
>My experience with Pertronix is when they fail there is no spark, but
>maybe someone else will chime in on whether a failure could still have
>a spark, albeit insufficient to get the car to run.
>
> 
>
>Andrew Uprichard
>
>Jackson, Michigan
>
> 
>
>From: Triumphs [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>Keith Richard Stewart
>Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2019 9:46 PM
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net
>Subject: [TR] TR4 Won't Start
>
> 
>
>When I took the TR4 (1962) out of winter storage, it started on the
>second turn of the key. I drove home fine, no problems. I cleaned up
>the car for a show last weekend. When I went to start, it was hard
>starting, did catch and ran rough for a few seconds before stalling.
>The starter is a hi-torque starter and had lots of “oomph”. The rough
>running was like it was on two cylinders or less. After several more
>attempts to get it started, including some starting fluid spray, I put
>the battery charger on to make sure the battery was charged fully. I
>attempted a start with the charger on the “start” setting with no luck.
>While looking over the engine compartment for a loose wire or bad
>connection, I noticed substantial oil leak around the filter adapter.
>The location was such that it appeared the seeping was between the oil
>filter head and the adapter.
>
> 
>
>Although not associated with the non-start issue, I figured I would
>take care of the oil leak, thinking it was the seal between the adapter
>and the filter head. I drained the oil, removed the filter, installed a
>new filter and filled with oil. It did seem there was a bit of fuel
>odor from the oil. I did install a new fuel pump two years ago so I
>will check that later. The fuel pump was one of TRF’s “Made in Italy”
>pumps. The additional start attempts since then have not produced any
>oil seeping out.
>
> 
>
>Back to the start problem.  The carbs are SU HS6, as on the TR4A. I
>removed the fuel line at the float bowl and gas pumped out during an
>attempted start. The ignition is a Pertronix. When I removed the rotor,
>it looked OK, but I had a spare in a tune up kit and a separate, red
>rotor, so I tried both with no luck. To make sure the battery was
>getting at least 10v to the Pertronix, I put in a new battery that I
>had. No luck. I removed plug #1, grounded it on the thermostat housing
>bolt and tried a start. I had a spark right away and almost immediately
>the car started up. Ran roughly – there were only three cylinders
>getting spark.
>
> 
>
>I shut off the engine, replaced the spark plug, and tried to start. No
>luck. Very baffling. I also had spark on #2, #3, and #4. With #2
>removed, car starts, Ditto with #3 and #4 removed. Once the plug is
>back in, the car will not start. Voltage at rest is 12.75v (have not
>charged it again after several start attempts over the past few days)
>and drops to 11v during starter engagement.
>
> 
>
>I had a new coil on hand so I tried it as well. No luck. Connections
>from the coil to ignition switch and coil to Pertronix are clean and
>secure.
>
> 
>
>All plug leads and the distributor lead are clean and secure. Battery
>connections are clean and secure. Battery putting out 12-14v.
>Connections at the starter solenoid and the starter are clean and
>secure.
>
> 
>
>I think that is everything I have tried to date. Any suggestions are
>most welcome.
>
> 
>
> 
>
>Keith Stewart
>
>keithstewart at bell.net
>
> 
>
>
>
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