[Mgs] HIF's

[Monte Jane Morris]

Getting ready for a 6 month road trip mostly to southern Utah (Yes, I have
online surveillance:), so the MG will be sitting in the garage for the best
months here in NE Missouri. About 10 years back when I had 2 B's, I got
both of them and another car into the two car garage while we were gone. I
have a set of car dollies that allows me to roll the MG around.

I just crammed a Jeep Cherokee Sport, a Ford Taurus, and  the MG in there
today. There's still room to get in and out of the Taurus for the next few
days until we leave:). It pays to have an uncluttered garage that lives up
to it's name and isn't just added storage:)

I am very thankful to have my MG "friends" available all day (and night you
across the pond) at my beck and call for technical assistance:). Safe
driving this summer and we'll "talk" in late fall!

Monte


On Fri, Apr 18, 2014 at 10:34 AM, Monte Jane Morris <montejane at gmail.com>wrote:

> I removed the dampers and did get the clunk, although with the dampers in
> I didn't. Go figure.
>
> Anyhow, the carbs are back on and the "cruise control" is now fixed.  I
> figured I would need to readadjust something besides the idle when the
> carbs went back on but I didn't touch anything else and it is running
> excellent again.
>
> Evidently the cause was the idle screw clinch nut on the back carb came
> loose and under 30 minutes of constant highway speeds the idle screw
> rotated downwards about 5 turns causing the butterfly to remain open.
>
> The rear carb idle screw is fairly loose when the clinch nut is loose. Is
> this common or should I retap and put a slightly larger screw/bolt in?
>
> As always, many thanks to you list members who helped diagnose the
> problem. I don't have to "resemble a mechanic" if I have you guys around:).
>
> Monte
> 79B owner since 2001. Former 67B and 68B owner starting in 1972.
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 18, 2014 at 9:14 AM, PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73 at virginmedia.com>wrote:
>
>> The clunk test is done with the engine off.  It won't clunk at idle as
>> the idle airflow lifts it off the bottom, and lifting it any more than
>> 1/32" will probably stall it.
>>
>> Strictly speaking the clunk test should be performed with the jet raised
>> level with the bridge, i.e. about two full turns from the normal position.
>> If it clunks here i.e. the needle doesn't bind then it definitely won't
>> bind with the jet in the lower running position.  But with sprung needles
>> instead of fixed it's very unlikely to bind anyway, and with HIFs there is
>> no provision for centring the jet even if it doesn't clunk.  But it's still
>> worth doing to make sure it isn't binding, perhaps due to a bent needle.
>>
>> The dampers won't make any difference to the clunk test.  They only damp
>> the upward movement of the piston, when you have forced them up against the
>> damper and then let them go they should drop smartly with said clunk.
>>
>> PaulH.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>>
>>> Several of you mentioned that after lifting the pistons you should hear a
>>> "clunk" when they drop. Is this when the car is off, idling, or both?