[Healeys] Brake line

[Kees Oudesluijs]

Ingress of water is mainly from condensation in the brake fluid 
reservoir during storage and/or in periods of high humidity. You cannot 
avoid it.

Kees Oudesluijs




Op 23-7-2018 om 15:24 schreef warthodson at aol.com:
> I prefer silicone brake fluid because it does not absorb water & it 
> does not affect paint & does not require frequent replacement. If you 
> have an ingress of water you already have a problem regardless of 
> which fluid type you are using! If the water separates out, like you 
> describe, you could simply expel it by bleeding the system. After you 
> fix the source of the leak, of course.
> Gary
>
>     Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there
>     is water ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e.
>     wheel cylinders and can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1
>     and replace every 2 years.
>     I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at
>     the same time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant (blue/green).
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> To: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 4:15 am
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake line
>
> Stainless steel brake lines are not always recommended. Some claim the 
> s-s lines can fatigue crack. It is also hard to bend and flare.
> Supposedly best are Cunifer brake lines. Marine grade material first 
> used in brake systems by Volvo in the 70´s I think. They are tough and 
> do not corrode like the steel lines do. They are fit and forget.
> You can get complete made up sets, however they are usually packed in 
> a roll and you have to bend the pipes yourself, but the lines are cut 
> to the correct length, flares are already made up and the correct 
> fittings already fitted.. The bending can be done by hand easily but 
> ideally you need a bottle/pipe/tin/wheel/wood block with the right 
> curve to prevent kinking. If you are very careful all can be done free 
> hand.
> Copper lines are also offered, but generally not recommended as copper 
> may harden, get brittle and fatigue crack. Very easy to bend and make 
> up flares though.
> Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use. If there is 
> water ingress it will separate out on the lower parts i.e. wheel 
> cylinders and can cause havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1 and 
> replace every 2 years.
> I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every year and at the 
> same time all other fluids: brake fluid and coolant (blue/green).
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
> Op 23-7-2018 om 08:20 schreef John Spaur:
>
>     Pipe bending is an art …--and switch to stainless (If you decide
>     to use stainless steel be prepared for it. The flaring tools are
>     different! Single flares, you can succeed most of the time but
>     quality control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once or twice
>     if you are lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it don’t
>     use SS unless you have the right tools or have a shop flare the
>     lines. You should also install copper cone washers between the SS
>     flare and the brake line seat. It prevents galling of the seat.
>     Oh… the washers are hard to find and hard to install; but you can
>     make them.)
>     I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake
>     wholesale supply shop flare the lines. I don’t recall what I paid
>     but it was not expensive and it was in and out the same day.
>     John Spaur
>     ’62 BT7
>
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