[Healeys] Brake line

[Bob Spidell]

Agree.  Anecdotally--I've only worked a bit with SS--I believe it to be 
harder and more brittle than mild steel.  A couple of cases:

- when trying to get a gas-tight and permanent seal at the exhaust 
manifold to downpipe flange, I tried some SS studs from Doug Reid.  They 
seemed to snap off with less torque than the mild steel ones, which I 
ended up using

- I was experimenting with safety wiring the set pins in my gearbox, and 
tried mild steel wire instead of SS and the SS wire broke more easily 
than the mild steel.  I used the SS anyway, as, well, it's good enough 
for the FAA (see photo)

Bob


On 7/22/2018 11:20 PM, John Spaur wrote:
>
> Pipe bending is an art …--and switch to stainless (If you decide to 
> use stainless steel be prepared for it. The flaring tools are 
> different! Single flares, you can succeed most of the time but quality 
> control is difficult. Double flares, maybe once or twice if you are 
> lucky until the tool breaks. The best advice it don’t use SS unless 
> you have the right tools or have a shop flare the lines. You should 
> also install copper cone washers between the SS flare and the brake 
> line seat. It prevents galling of the seat. Oh… the washers are hard 
> to find and hard to install; but you can make them.)
>
> I bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local brake wholesale 
> supply shop flare the lines. I don’t recall what I paid but it was not 
> expensive and it was in and out the same day.
>
> John Spaur
>
> ’62 BT7
>
>
>

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