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<p>Ingress of water is mainly from condensation in the brake fluid
reservoir during storage and/or in periods of high humidity. You
cannot avoid it.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 23-7-2018 om 15:24 schreef
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:warthodson@aol.com">warthodson@aol.com</a>:<br>
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<div>I prefer silicone brake fluid because it does not absorb
water & it does not affect paint & does not require
frequent replacement. If you have an ingress of water you
already have a problem regardless of which fluid type you are
using! If the water separates out, like you describe, you
could simply expel it by bleeding the system. After you fix
the source of the leak, of course.</div>
<div>Gary</div>
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<div>Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal use.
If there is water ingress it will separate out on the
lower parts i.e. wheel cylinders and can cause havoc. Use
conventional DOT4 or 5.1 and replace every 2 years.</div>
<div>I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every
year and at the same time all other fluids: brake fluid
and coolant (blue/green).<br>
</div>
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<div
style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: Kees Oudesluijs <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl"><coudesluijs@chello.nl></a><br>
To: healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
Sent: Mon, Jul 23, 2018 4:15 am<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake line<br>
<br>
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<div>Stainless steel brake lines are not always
recommended. Some claim the s-s lines can fatigue crack.
It is also hard to bend and flare. <br>
</div>
<div>Supposedly best are Cunifer brake lines. Marine grade
material first used in brake systems by Volvo in the
70´s I think. They are tough and do not corrode like the
steel lines do. They are fit and forget. <br>
</div>
<div>You can get complete made up sets, however they are
usually packed in a roll and you have to bend the pipes
yourself, but the lines are cut to the correct length,
flares are already made up and the correct fittings
already fitted.. The bending can be done by hand easily
but ideally you need a bottle/pipe/tin/wheel/wood block
with the right curve to prevent kinking. If you are very
careful all can be done free hand. <br>
</div>
<div>Copper lines are also offered, but generally not
recommended as copper may harden, get brittle and
fatigue crack. Very easy to bend and make up flares
though.</div>
<div>Forget the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) for normal
use. If there is water ingress it will separate out on
the lower parts i.e. wheel cylinders and can cause
havoc. Use conventional DOT4 or 5.1 and replace every 2
years.</div>
<div>I replace my engine, gearbox and rear axle oil every
year and at the same time all other fluids: brake fluid
and coolant (blue/green).<br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Kees Oudesluijs</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
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<div class="aolmail_moz-cite-prefix">Op 23-7-2018 om 08:20
schreef John Spaur:<br>
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<div class="aolmail_MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Pipe
bending is an art </span><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">…</span><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">--and
switch to stainless </span><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">(If
you decide to use stainless steel be prepared for
it. The flaring tools are different! Single
flares, you can succeed most of the time but
quality control is difficult. Double flares, maybe
once or twice if you are lucky until the tool
breaks. The best advice it don’t use SS unless you
have the right tools or have a shop flare the
lines. You should also install copper cone washers
between the SS flare and the brake line seat. It
prevents galling of the seat. Oh… the washers are
hard to find and hard to install; but you can make
them.)</span><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"></span></div>
<div class="aolmail_MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D"> </span></div>
<div class="aolmail_MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">I
bent the SS lines for my BT7 and then had a local
brake wholesale supply shop flare the lines. I
don’t recall what I paid but it was not expensive
and it was in and out the same day.</span></div>
<div class="aolmail_MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D"> </span></div>
<div class="aolmail_MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">John
Spaur</span></div>
<div class="aolmail_MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#1F497D">’62
BT7</span><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"></span></div>
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