[Healeys] Pertronix question

Bob Spidell bspidell at comcast.net
Thu Nov 2 20:42:10 MDT 2017


I recommend you call Pertronix and discuss with one of their techs; I've 
found them to be knowledgeable and helpful.

IIRC, the wiring scheme is different for a pos. ground car vs. a neg. 
ground car.  (pos. gnd. is simpler, and allows you to retain the 
'anti-theft' feature of the w/b wire to the cutoff switch with a bit of 
modification, if you so choose).  Their site says the II requires 
suppression ignition wires, so you'll need a different cap and wires.   
If by 'points plate' you mean the advance plate, the answer is no; the 
Pertronix replaces the points screw-for-screw (minus the condenser, of 
course).  Timing will be off--probably retarded by 20deg or more--after 
the Pertronix install.

The Ignitors (Is) in my BN2 and BJ8 gave overall improvement with OEM 
coils; they'll throw a 3/4 inch spark outside the cylinder.


On 11/2/2017 5:54 PM, Bruce Steele wrote:
> Well, after experiencing what seems to be “condenser misfiring” on my 
> way back from Russ Thompson’s shop, I’m thinking I may end my stubborn 
> holdout and convert to Pertronix.  I’ve a few questions:
> 1)What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II?
> a.Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II?
> b.Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug 
> wires, or do you replace the cap as well?
> c.Sources for caps and wires?  I’m assuming the Pertronix cap in the 
> Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not 
> fit a DM6 distributor.  Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder.
> 2)Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well?
> 3)The connection looks straight forward—red to coil (+), black to coil 
> (–) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into 
> the harness.  Obviously the while/black from coil (–) to the 
> distributor is removed.
> 4)Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A.  Is this applicable 
> to the DM6?
> 5)Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead 
> post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly 
> secured to a hole in the housing with nuts.  I’m assuming I have to 
> remove the points plate to gain access, correct?
> Thanks in advance for the input.
> Bruce Steele
> Brea, CA
> 1960 BN7
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