[Healeys] Pertronix question

Jonas Payne jpaynepbr at cox.net
Thu Nov 2 21:28:45 MDT 2017

Don't do it.  Petronix sucks.   I buy condensers by the gross.  The bad ones
are bad out of the box or last a week, the good ones last a decade.  They
are cheap and easy to replace.


Once I started using Autozone Coils instead of Bosch and Lucas, and once you
have  a "right"  condenser, it's as simple as adjusting the point gap every
spring and forgetting about it.


If you really must, MSD setup with the disc and brain are bulletproof, but
ugly to look at. 


I'll be pulling the Petronix out of my recently purchased (and poorly
running) E Type over the weekend.


Jonas Payne

PBR Consulting Services, LLC



From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce
Sent: Thursday, November 2, 2017 5:55 PM
To: 'Healey List' <healeys at autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Pertronix question


Well, after experiencing what seems to be "condenser misfiring" on my way
back from Russ Thompson's shop, I'm thinking I may end my stubborn holdout
and convert to Pertronix.  I've a few questions:

1.	What are the opinions on the Ignitor vs. the Ignitor II?  

a.	Is it worth changing out the plug wires to go with the II?  
b.	Can you use the stock cap with suppression or spiral wound plug
wires, or do you replace the cap as well?  
c.	Sources for caps and wires?  I'm assuming the Pertronix cap in the
Moss catalogue is for the Pertronix distributor they list and will not fit a
DM6 distributor.  Nor do they show Cobalt wires for a 6 cylinder.

2.	Is it worth getting the Pertronix coil as well?
3.	The connection looks straight forward-red to coil (+), black to coil
(-) while retaining the white and white/black connections back into the
harness.  Obviously the while/black from coil (-) to the distributor is
4.	Pertronix website only shows a kit for the DM6A.  Is this applicable
to the DM6?
5.	Looking at the shop manual, their view shows the DM6 negative lead
post in what appears to be a slot, while my distributor is clearly secured
to a hole in the housing with nuts.  I'm assuming I have to remove the
points plate to gain access, correct?


Thanks in advance for the input.


Bruce Steele

Brea, CA

1960 BN7


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