[Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8

Bob Spidell bspidell at comcast.net
Fri May 12 09:54:19 MDT 2017


I got: DWR1 cam with std. lifters, DWR HC oil pump and blew a wad on DWR 
pistons (85mm IIRC--0.045" over--but not sure).  I sourced a vernier 
timing set from Australia--thanks Chris!--and the cam did require some 
adjustment to meet specs.  I'm very happy with the engine's performance; 
this car is mostly a highway cruiser, so low-end torque and good 
mid-range is my preference.

Bob

On 5/12/2017 4:05 AM, David Masucci wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> A few weeks back I mentioned to the list that I’m considering using a 
> Welch DWR8 cam.  Based on responses and more research I think I will 
> go with the DWR1 with the bucket followers and longer pushrods. I also 
> plan to use the high capacity pump on my mostly stock engine.
>
> I was considering using the roller rockers, but am not sure if that’s 
> going to make any significant improvement. I know it will buy a couple 
> of ponies due to less friction, but is there any other significant 
> advantage on a basically stock engine. Would I be wasting my money on 
> something fancy that really has modest benefit? The DWR1 cam provides 
> 0.252” cam lift. According to Welch, the valve lift with standard 
> rockers would be 0.358”, and would not need pockets machined into the 
> block. Based on the 1.65:1 ratio of the roller rockers, the valve lift 
> will be 0.416”. I believe that will require pockets in the block.
>
> Does anyone have opinions on this combination? The roller rocker 
> assembly is over $1200 not including getting into the US from the UK. 
> Is there a better place in the engine  to spend those dollars?
>
> Thanks all!!
> Dave
>
> 64 BJ8
> 72 XJ6
> 72 Bonneville
>
>
>
>
>> On Apr 16, 2017, at 1:13 AM, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com 
>> <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com>> wrote:
>>
>> Bob, your post is of interest. I just sent my engine to the painter 
>> today with DWR 85mm pistons; DWR1 cam, hollow tappets and matching 
>> pushrods; and DWR lightened flywheel with 9.5” clutch.  Already had 
>> the DWR high capacity oil pump. Plus new DWR reverse, 1^st and 
>> cluster gears and all new synchros.  I’m keeping the stock intake and 
>> exhaust manifolds, and the stock carbs.  My car was originally a 
>> non-OD cars (now so equipped), so it has the 3.54 rear.  Really 
>> looking forward to experiencing how it will drive.
>> Bruce Steele
>> Brea, CA
>> 1960 BN7
>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]*On Behalf 
>> Of*Bob Spidell
>> *Sent:*Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:38 AM
>> *To:*healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:*Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8
>>
>> Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the 
>> lower torque curve is helpful.
>>
>> On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Dave,
>>>
>>> I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K 
>>> miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe 
>>> and lifter wear.  I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if 
>>> you're really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.'   The DWR1 is 
>>> 'slightly better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most 
>>> appropriate for a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower.  
>>> I don't think you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you 
>>> at least use headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy 
>>> heads--and then additional tuning is required.  Steve G.--on this 
>>> list, I believe--is doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has 
>>> headers and the rest of his engine is likely tuned for the higher 
>>> torque/power band.  The DWR1 doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM, 
>>> but I do mostly long distance touring so I'm usually running 
>>> 2,500RPM, give-or-take.  I do a lot of driving '100 miles from 
>>> nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my drivetrain.
>>>
>>> DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their 
>>> gun-drilled cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in 
>>> which case you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods, 
>>> pistons, etc.). Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean 
>>> all components--e.g. rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris.  
>>> My builder was adamant about that.  You can use either 'standard' 
>>> lifters with your current pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their 
>>> pushrods.  I went with standard.  I sourced an adjustable, vernier 
>>> timing set from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some 
>>> adjustment.
>>>
>>> DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of 
>>> course, there's a significant time difference.  Whichever cam you 
>>> use, please let us know your results.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> On 4/15/2017 4:12 AM,drmasucci at comcast.net 
>>> <mailto:drmasucci at comcast.net>wrote:
>>>> Hi All,
>>>> Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8 
>>>> engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a 
>>>> full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine. 
>>>> While all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and 
>>>> lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern 
>>>> oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part of the 
>>>> engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why.
>>>> So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam 
>>>> reground, or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and 
>>>> based on the wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am 
>>>> looking for stock or mild tune only.
>>>> I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new 
>>>> to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam 
>>>> parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the 
>>>> valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components.
>>>> I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I 
>>>> understand that I will have to machine pockets into the block for 
>>>> valve clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock 
>>>> parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to 
>>>> determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is 
>>>> drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other 
>>>> modifications to support that feature?
>>>> So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list. 
>>>> Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey?  Any 
>>>> opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my 
>>>> best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like 
>>>> to hear that also.
>>>> As usual, thanks in advance for any help.
>>>> Dave
>>>> 64 BJ8
>>>> 72 XJ6
>>>> 72 Bonneville
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
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