[Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8
tomfelts at windstream.net
Fri May 12 17:16:40 MDT 2017
so, how does all this boost the performance (speed, mileage, etc) over stock?
---- Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net> wrote:
I got: DWR1 cam with std. lifters, DWR HC oil pump and blew a wad on DWR
pistons (85mm IIRC--0.045" over--but not sure). I sourced a vernier
timing set from Australia--thanks Chris!--and the cam did require some
adjustment to meet specs. I'm very happy with the engine's performance;
this car is mostly a highway cruiser, so low-end torque and good
mid-range is my preference.
On 5/12/2017 4:05 AM, David Masucci wrote:
> Hi all,
> A few weeks back I mentioned to the list that I’m considering using a
> Welch DWR8 cam. Based on responses and more research I think I will
> go with the DWR1 with the bucket followers and longer pushrods. I also
> plan to use the high capacity pump on my mostly stock engine.
> I was considering using the roller rockers, but am not sure if that’s
> going to make any significant improvement. I know it will buy a couple
> of ponies due to less friction, but is there any other significant
> advantage on a basically stock engine. Would I be wasting my money on
> something fancy that really has modest benefit? The DWR1 cam provides
> 0.252” cam lift. According to Welch, the valve lift with standard
> rockers would be 0.358”, and would not need pockets machined into the
> block. Based on the 1.65:1 ratio of the roller rockers, the valve lift
> will be 0.416”. I believe that will require pockets in the block.
> Does anyone have opinions on this combination? The roller rocker
> assembly is over $1200 not including getting into the US from the UK.
> Is there a better place in the engine to spend those dollars?
> Thanks all!!
> 64 BJ8
> 72 XJ6
> 72 Bonneville
>> On Apr 16, 2017, at 1:13 AM, Bruce Steele <healeybruce at roadrunner.com
>> <mailto:healeybruce at roadrunner.com>> wrote:
>> Bob, your post is of interest. I just sent my engine to the painter
>> today with DWR 85mm pistons; DWR1 cam, hollow tappets and matching
>> pushrods; and DWR lightened flywheel with 9.5” clutch. Already had
>> the DWR high capacity oil pump. Plus new DWR reverse, 1^st and
>> cluster gears and all new synchros. I’m keeping the stock intake and
>> exhaust manifolds, and the stock carbs. My car was originally a
>> non-OD cars (now so equipped), so it has the 3.54 rear. Really
>> looking forward to experiencing how it will drive.
>> Bruce Steele
>> Brea, CA
>> 1960 BN7
>> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net]*On Behalf
>> Of*Bob Spidell
>> *Sent:*Saturday, April 15, 2017 8:38 AM
>> *To:*healeys at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys at autox.team.net>
>> *Subject:*Re: [Healeys] Selecting a replacement CAM for BJ8
>> Neglected to mention I have a Lempert 3.54 diff in my car, so the
>> lower torque curve is helpful.
>> On 4/15/2017 7:17 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:
>>> Hi Dave,
>>> I just finished a rebuild on my BJ8; my engine--with over 100K
>>> miles--was in similar condition to yours with significant cam lobe
>>> and lifter wear. I installed a DWR1 cam; it's more appropriate if
>>> you're really ' looking for stock or mild tune only.' The DWR1 is
>>> 'slightly better than stock', in DWR's word's, and should be most
>>> appropriate for a street/touring car as the torque curve is lower.
>>> I don't think you'll gain much if anything with the DWR8 unless you
>>> at least use headers and port your head--or buy one of DWR's alloy
>>> heads--and then additional tuning is required. Steve G.--on this
>>> list, I believe--is doing a build with a DWR8 cam, but he has
>>> headers and the rest of his engine is likely tuned for the higher
>>> torque/power band. The DWR1 doesn't want to go much over 4,500RPM,
>>> but I do mostly long distance touring so I'm usually running
>>> 2,500RPM, give-or-take. I do a lot of driving '100 miles from
>>> nowhere' so I generally go pretty easy on my drivetrain.
>>> DWR recommends their High Capacity oil pump when using their
>>> gun-drilled cam, unless you're going to spend time over 6,000RPM (in
>>> which case you'll probably want their billet crankshaft, conrods,
>>> pistons, etc.). Since you had cam/lifter damage, be sure to clean
>>> all components--e.g. rocker shaft--thoroughly to remove any debris.
>>> My builder was adamant about that. You can use either 'standard'
>>> lifters with your current pushrods, or get bucket lifters and their
>>> pushrods. I went with standard. I sourced an adjustable, vernier
>>> timing set from Australia; my builder said the cam did require some
>>> DWR Support has a chat facility; they are very responsive but, of
>>> course, there's a significant time difference. Whichever cam you
>>> use, please let us know your results.
>>> On 4/15/2017 4:12 AM,drmasucci at comcast.net
>>> <mailto:drmasucci at comcast.net>wrote:
>>>> Hi All,
>>>> Well now that spring is here, I am resuming the rebuild of my BJ8
>>>> engine. The engine was rebuilt back in 1999, but since I'm doing a
>>>> full resto of the car, I decided to take a look at the engine.
>>>> While all other parameters were well within spec, the cam and
>>>> lifters were damaged. Back then I didn't know much about modern
>>>> oils and the lack of zinc, and since that's the only part of the
>>>> engine that didn't do well, I am assuming that must be why.
>>>> So I am now trying to decide what to do. I can have my cam
>>>> reground, or buy new. Since I believe it was already reground and
>>>> based on the wear, I am thinking maybe new is the best choice. I am
>>>> looking for stock or mild tune only.
>>>> I am not a pro engine builder, but I know the basics and am not new
>>>> to the process. I know that if I change something like the cam
>>>> parameters, I need to understand how that affects the rest of the
>>>> valve train. I looking for guidance on selecting the right components.
>>>> I am considering the Welch DWR8 cam and lifter package. I
>>>> understand that I will have to machine pockets into the block for
>>>> valve clearance. I will be having the head rebuilt to basic stock
>>>> parameters as far as the valve gear is concerned. I need to
>>>> determine how to select the correct pushrods. Since this cam is
>>>> drilled to feed oil to the lobes, do I need to make other
>>>> modifications to support that feature?
>>>> So I'm looking for some feedback and recommendations from the list.
>>>> Has anyone followed a similar path on their 6 cylinder Healey? Any
>>>> opinions, cautions, or advice would be appreciated. Is this cam my
>>>> best choice? Also if there are better options to consider I'd like
>>>> to hear that also.
>>>> As usual, thanks in advance for any help.
>>>> 64 BJ8
>>>> 72 XJ6
>>>> 72 Bonneville
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