[Healeys] Steering Box Leaks
John and Judy Carter
jc9821 at msn.com
Tue Jun 16 12:10:33 MDT 2015
Years ago I cured my steering box leak by adding a product by Bardahl called "No Smoke". It is extremely thick oil. I have not added any additional oil since then.
> From: healeys-request at autox.team.net
> Subject: Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 170
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 12:00:03 -0600
>
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Michael Salter)
> 2. BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Michael Salter)
> 3. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Derek Job)
> 4. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Oudesluys)
> 5. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Michael)
> 6. Recommendation on sale (Kimo Briske)
> 7. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Bob Haskell)
> 8. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Alan Seigrist)
> 9. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (M James)
> 10. Re: BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor (Michael)
> 11. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Auto Farm)
> 12. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Michael)
> 13. Re: Driving 100 (Mark Donaldson)
> 14. Re: Driving 100 (Bob Spidell)
> 15. Re: Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8 (Rfbegani)
> 16. Re: Recommendation on sale (George)
> 17. Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Tom Felts)
> 18. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Michael Salter)
> 19. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Derek Job)
> 20. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Michael)
> 21. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Derek Job)
> 22. Re: Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8 (Tim Davis BN7)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 14:13:03 -0400
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> <CAB3i7LLJ-7QBw3=Zrkc9y2M1p6QcS55i=LfgUaTtj+muEurGjw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 8:11 AM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > With all due respects to those recommending it for steering boxes grease
> > is not a satisfactory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.
> > The reason is very simple.
> > The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant from the loaded
> > faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.
> > That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing a seal.
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > ------------------------------
> > From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> > Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> >
> > I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right front
> > suspension area when making a slow full right turn.
> >
> > I do not hear it when making a full turn when the car is on concrete and
> > is not moving.
> >
> > I noted this same condition on my E-Type also.
> >
> > I have Dayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs.
> >
> > It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.
> >
> > Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and
> > found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit
> > flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn.
> > Their solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their
> > problem.
> >
> > Question---------have any of you had this problem and if so what did you
> > determine was the issue and how did you solve it?
> >
> > Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil seal)
> > and the dust excluder has disintegrated. Is it possible to replace these 2
> > items while the steering box is still in the car by removing the lower nut
> > and steering lever?
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
> >
> > tom
> > 65 BJ8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >
> > ?Having read a little more about this "Corn head lube" I may have to
> rethink what I was taught in school about gearbox lubrication...
> This is pretty convincing...
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UEwk_sYP6A8
> ?
> ?Michael S
> BN1 #174?
>
>
>
> --
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 14:44:06 -0400
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID:
> <CAB3i7L+OrNud9kTWo0n3y38OxeVU0E-bdKSUp0wN4+ucJ2q8Gg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.
> Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
> I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough information
> to make one..
> Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimensions
> too.
> Thanks,
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> --
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 19:50:55 +0100
> From: Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> <CAAh8etk3f_pLGvBjNOeq-UzgUU3Ai0ByXAz_nNVjuJji3fvMZQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Here is a link to a spec sheet
>
> http://www.cenex.com/~/media/cenex/files/lubricants/cornhead%20grease/corn%20head%20grease_pds-h9-02.ashx
>
> Not being from an agricultural background I had no idea what people were
> talking about when mentioning 'Corn Head Grease'. For others who may be
> similarly in a state of ignorance it appears that a Corn Head is a large
> piece of agricultural equipment that gets attached to an even larger
> combine harvester. Various gears are very much in evidence and this grease
> is what is recommended to lubricate them. It isn't made from the heads of
> corn!
>
> Seems to be a similar consistency to Penrite lube.
>
> Derek
>
> On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 7:13 PM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 8:11 AM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> With all due respects to those recommending it for steering boxes grease
> >> is not a satisfactory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.
> >> The reason is very simple.
> >> The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant from the
> >> loaded faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.
> >> That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing a seal.
> >> Michael S
> >> BN1 #174
> >> ------------------------------
> >> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> >> Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.
> >> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> >> Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> >>
> >> I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right
> >> front suspension area when making a slow full right turn.
> >>
> >> I do not hear it when making a full turn when the car is on concrete and
> >> is not moving.
> >>
> >> I noted this same condition on my E-Type also.
> >>
> >> I have Dayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs.
> >>
> >> It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.
> >>
> >> Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and
> >> found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit
> >> flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn.
> >> Their solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their
> >> problem.
> >>
> >> Question---------have any of you had this problem and if so what did you
> >> determine was the issue and how did you solve it?
> >>
> >> Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil
> >> seal) and the dust excluder has disintegrated. Is it possible to replace
> >> these 2 items while the steering box is still in the car by removing the
> >> lower nut and steering lever?
> >>
> >> Thanks for any help.
> >>
> >> tom
> >> 65 BJ8
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >>
> >> ?Having read a little more about this "Corn head lube" I may have to
> > rethink what I was taught in school about gearbox lubrication...
> > This is pretty convincing...
> > https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=UEwk_sYP6A8
> > ?
> > ?Michael S
> > BN1 #174?
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> >
> >
> >
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 22:33:17 +0200
> From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID: <557F368D.4010106 at chello.nl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
> The exact dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it fits
> snugly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one up
> using a hacksaw, grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket should be
> strong enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as the spring does
> not touch any adjacent parts all should be well.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Michael Salter schreef op 15-6-2015 om 20:44:
> > I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.
> > Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
> > I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough
> > information to make one..
> > Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps
> > dimensions too.
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> >
> > --
> > /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
> >
> >
> >
> > Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> > Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> > Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitgifte:
> > 06/15/15
> >
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 17:16:51 -0400
> From: Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> To: Oudesluys <coudesluijs at chello.nl>, <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID: <557f40e1.042d320a.0d84.ffff8415 at mx.google.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Gosh....I never thought of that. ?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>
> Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 4:38 p.m.
> To: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
>
> The exact dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it fits snugly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one up using a hacksaw, grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket should be strong enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as the spring does not touch any adjacent parts all should be well.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Michael Salter schreef op 15-6-2015 om 20:44:
>
> I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.
>
> Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
>
> I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough information to make one..
>
> Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimensions too.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Michael S
>
> BN1 #174
>
>
> --
>
> If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitgifte: 06/15/15
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 11:47:33 -1000
> From: Kimo Briske <kimobriske at gmail.com>
> To: Healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [Healeys] Recommendation on sale
> Message-ID:
> <CANqsgC7wu9ioDzn1VLaqaXDcVq+iwZOgezak80P-v3f_peP_gw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I was contacted by sellernetworks.com to list my BT7. Does anyone have
> experence with them ? Thanks, Jim
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 17:52:24 -0400
> From: Bob Haskell <rchaskell at earthlink.net>
> To: warthodson at aol.com, michael.salter at gmail.com,
> healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <557F4918.2090609 at earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
> Gary,
>
> The SKF part number is 9815.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Bob Haskell
> AHCA 3000 Mk I registrar
> http://www.ciahc.org/registry_3000mk1.php
>
> On 06/15/2015 07:43 AM, warthodson at aol.com wrote:
> > Where can I get "2 CR seals each of which is 1/2 the thickness of the
> > original"?
> > Gary Hodson
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> > To: Per Schoerner <per at schoerner.se>; healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sun, Jun 14, 2015 5:24 pm
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> >
> > Interesting...
> > I have always found that the problem was attributable to corrosion on
> > the rocker shaft where the seal seats.
> > I solve this by using 2 CR seals each of which is 1/2 the thickness of
> > the original.
> > I'm a little confused as to how you get a steering box in a lathe???
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rchaskell@earthlink.net
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 05:52:32 +0800
> From: Alan Seigrist <healey.nut at gmail.com>
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID:
> <CAFBXTk+7BeT_Vkgxgdu2mf7mzociBqPxwSpG3nraQ+RWnqEsAQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I am pretty sure kilmartin or maybe David Knock has these.
>
> On Tuesday, June 16, 2015, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.
> > Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
> > I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough
> > information to make one..
> > Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimensions
> > too.
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> >
> > --
> > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
> >
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 15:12:11 -0700
> From: M James <britcrs at gmail.com>
> To: Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "<healeys at autox.team.net>" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID: <7EE842C0-E640-4947-A61C-6F4C5DD5CD57 at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Moss P/N 586-085
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Jun 15, 2015, at 2:16 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Gosh....I never thought of that. ?
> > From: Oudesluys
> > Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 4:38 p.m.
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> >
> > The exact dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it fits snugly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one up using a hacksaw, grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket should be strong enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as the spring does not touch any adjacent parts all should be well.
> > Kees Oudesluijs
> >
> >
> > Michael Salter schreef op 15-6-2015 om 20:44:
> >> I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.
> >> Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
> >> I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough information to make one..
> >> Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimensions too.
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Michael S
> >> BN1 #174
> >>
> >> --
> >> If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> >> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitgifte: 06/15/15
> >>
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/britcrs@gmail.com
> >
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 18:16:25 -0400
> From: Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> To: M James <britcrs at gmail.com>
> Cc: "<healeys at autox.team.net>" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
> Message-ID: <557f4ed8.4c1b6b0a.dcca.ffffa30d at mx.google.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I had discounted the Moss part because the part illustrated looks nothing like the original that I had or like the one in my picture.
> Has anyone purchased the Moss part and could send me a pic.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "M James" <britcrs at gmail.com>
> Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 6:12 p.m.
> To: "Michael" <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "Oudesluys" <coudesluijs at chello.nl>; "<healeys at autox.team.net>" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
>
> Moss P/N 586-085
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Jun 15, 2015, at 2:16 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Gosh....I never thought of that. ?
>
>
> From: Oudesluys
> Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 4:38 p.m.
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN1 Clutch Return Spring Anchor
>
>
> The exact dimensions don't seem to be very critical. Make sure it fits snugly on the flange at the rear. It should be very easy to make one up using a hacksaw, grinding stone and a good drill. The bracket should be strong enough so a thickness of 3mm will do. As long as the spring does not touch any adjacent parts all should be well.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Michael Salter schreef op 15-6-2015 om 20:44:
>
> I have been unable to find the clutch return spring anchor for #174.
>
> Looks as though I'm going to have to make one.
>
> I have attached a pic of one in position but do not have enough information to make one..
>
> Can anyone out there send me a picture of one removed.. perhaps dimensions too.
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Michael S
>
> BN1 #174
>
>
> --
>
> If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/coudesluijs@chello.nl
>
>
>
>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com
> Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4360/10019 - datum van uitgifte: 06/15/15
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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>
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>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 19:04:19 -0400
> From: "Auto Farm" <autofarm at wightman.ca>
> To: "'Michael'" <michael.salter at gmail.com>, <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <005a01d0a7bf$9c5b84e0$d5128ea0$@ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Mike, while I would whole heartedly agree that grease is not a good lubricant for steering boxes, or any gearbox for that matter, the John Deere ?grease? that is refered to is quite different and specifically designed for gearboxes. It is formulated for gear teeth under much higher loads than our steering boxes will ever encounter, and covers the teeth with a visible oily coating. We have been using it for several years with very good results and no steering box failures?.. or leaking.
>
> Cheers?Bob Yule Autofarm Ltd.
>
>
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
> Sent: June-15-15 8:11 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
>
>
>
> With all due respects to those recommending it for steering boxes grease is not a satisfactory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.
> The reason is very simple.
> The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant from the loaded faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.
> That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing a seal.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> _____
>
> From: Tom Felts <mailto:tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
>
> I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right front suspension area when making a slow full right turn.
>
> I do not hear it when making a full turn when the car is on concrete and is not moving.
>
> I noted this same condition on my E-Type also.
>
> I have Dayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs.
>
> It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.
>
> Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn. Their solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their problem.
>
> Question---------have any of you had this problem and if so what did you determine was the issue and how did you solve it?
>
> Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil seal) and the dust excluder has disintegrated. Is it possible to replace these 2 items while the steering box is still in the car by removing the lower nut and steering lever?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> tom
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 19:11:07 -0400
> From: Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> To: Auto Farm <autofarm at wightman.ca>, <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <557f5baa.d1286b0a.a555.ffffb871 at mx.google.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi Bob and thanks for pointing that out.
> I have watched the John Deere video on their grease and must say that it has definitely made me reconsider what I was taught in my engineering classes so many years ago.
> Really looks like neat stuff and next time I encounter a leaking steering box I intend to give it to try.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Auto Farm" <autofarm at wightman.ca>
> Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 7:04 p.m.
> To: "'Michael'" <michael.salter at gmail.com>; "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
>
> Mike, while I would whole heartedly agree that grease is not a good lubricant for steering boxes, or any gearbox for that matter, the John Deere ?grease? that is refered to is quite different and specifically designed for gearboxes. It is formulated for gear teeth under much higher loads than our steering boxes will ever encounter, and covers the teeth with a visible oily coating. We have been using it for several years with very good results and no steering box failures?.. or leaking.
> Cheers?Bob Yule Autofarm Ltd.
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
> Sent: June-15-15 8:11 AM
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
>
> With all due respects to those recommending it for steering boxes grease is not a satisfactory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.
> The reason is very simple.
> The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant from the loaded faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.
> That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing a seal.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
>
>
> From: Tom Felts
> Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right front suspension area when making a slow full right turn.
>
> I do not hear it when making a full turn when the car is on concrete and is not moving.
>
> I noted this same condition on my E-Type also.
>
> I have Dayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs.
>
> It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.
>
> Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn. Their solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their problem.
>
> Question---------have any of you had this problem and if so what did you determine was the issue and how did you solve it?
>
> Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil seal) and the dust excluder has disintegrated. Is it possible to replace these 2 items while the steering box is still in the car by removing the lower nut and steering lever?
>
> Thanks for any help.
>
> tom
> 65 BJ8
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 11:17:25 +1200
> From: "Mark Donaldson" <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
> To: "'Bob Spidell'" <bspidell at comcast.net>, "'Healeys'"
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving 100
> Message-ID: <3436E3179A0841FEBAE8DB1D1860DDC0 at MarkPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Bob,
>
> Are you sure the wheel alignment is OK?
> I have found that with even the slightest bit of toe out, my BN2 will be '
> quite lively'
>
> Mark
> Ardmore, NZ
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob Spidell [mailto:bspidell at comcast.net]
> Sent: Monday, 15 June 2015 9:49 a.m.
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Driving 100
>
> Listers,
>
> Finally had a chance to put some miles on our BN2/100M resto. Car
> tracks straight and turns well but feels somewhat 'squirrelly' or
> 'twitchy' to me. I'm used to driving a BJ8 with oversize (6") wheels
> and 185/70 tires which feels like a land barge compared to the 100. I
> would expect a 100 to be a lot more nimble than a BJ8, but you have to
> really stay on top of the car to stay out of the weeds. We set up the
> suspension ourselves, with nominal caster, camber and toe, but our tools
> were somewhat crude and we may have screwed something up (particularly
> the caster).
>
> Anyone driven both cars a lot, can tell me if something might be wrong,
> or do I just have to stay on top of this car at all times (I know,
> you're supposed to stay on top of ALL cars, but this one feels like it
> has no margin for sloppiness or inattentiveness at all)?
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 23:27:11 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Bob Spidell <bspidell at comcast.net>
> To: Mark Donaldson <ardmorebusiness at xtra.co.nz>
> Cc: healeys <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Driving 100
> Message-ID:
> <1166609709.24671317.1434410831204.JavaMail.zimbra at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> We've only done the toe setting with crude 'tools' (tape measure, mostly).
>
> Several have commented on toe-in/out being the possible cause; we'll check it first (won't be down there for a couple weeks).
>
> Thanks for all the replies. Now, back to oil ...
>
> Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
> Bob,
>
> Are you sure the wheel alignment is OK?
> I have found that with even the slightest bit of toe out, my BN2 will be '
> quite lively'
>
> Mark
> Ardmore, NZ
>
>
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/healeys/attachments/20150615/6a297190/attachment-0001.html>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 20:17:19 -0400
> From: Rfbegani <rfbegani at speakeasy.net>
> To: Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "<healeys at autox.team.net>" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <81BE35B5-86D1-4AA6-92CE-C282FE490444 at speakeasy.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Mike
>
> While I am not as experienced regarding restoring and repairing Healeys as you and so many on this list when I reviewed the features and benefits mentioned in the tech spec and saw they were using thixotropic and polymeric properties I was convinced they were able to improve on classic lube mixes because solder and thread compounds paste type products I sold to industry for many years used such technology. They were created by a u of Chicago phd. As you all will see if you look at the video in a semi liquid state sticks to the gear surfaces when lube is needed If my steering box becomes a leaker will try JD grease first before disassembly.
>
> Regards
>
> Bob Begani
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 15, 2015, at 7:11 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Bob and thanks for pointing that out.
> > I have watched the John Deere video on their grease and must say that it has definitely made me reconsider what I was taught in my engineering classes so many years ago.
> > Really looks like neat stuff and next time I encounter a leaking steering box I intend to give it to try.
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > From: Auto Farm
> > Sent: ?15/?06/?2015 7:04 p.m.
> > To: 'Michael'; healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: RE: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> >
> > Mike, while I would whole heartedly agree that grease is not a good lubricant for steering boxes, or any gearbox for that matter, the John Deere ?grease? that is refered to is quite different and specifically designed for gearboxes. It is formulated for gear teeth under much higher loads than our steering boxes will ever encounter, and covers the teeth with a visible oily coating. We have been using it for several years with very good results and no steering box failures?.. or leaking.
> > Cheers?Bob Yule Autofarm Ltd.
> >
> > From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael
> > Sent: June-15-15 8:11 AM
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> >
> > With all due respects to those recommending it for steering boxes grease is not a satisfactory lubricant for any type of precision gearbox.
> > The reason is very simple.
> > The pressure on the gear teeth will displace the lubricant from the loaded faces so that lubricant must be a liquid to be replenished.
> > That is why the designers went to all the trouble of installing a seal.
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > From: Tom Felts
> > Sent: ?14/?06/?2015 5:00 p.m.
> > To: healeys at autox.team.net
> > Subject: [Healeys] Steering Box and Wire Wheel Questions--BJ8
> >
> > I have recently been hearing a "pop pop" noise coming from the right front suspension area when making a slow full right turn.
> >
> > I do not hear it when making a full turn when the car is on concrete and is not moving.
> >
> > I noted this same condition on my E-Type also.
> >
> > I have Dayton wire wheels on both and relatively new hubs.
> >
> > It is not the spinners or a wheel bearing or worn splines.
> >
> > Several listers on the Jag list have said they had the same problem and found that the quality of the Dayton's had gone down and they did not fit flush with the hub--thus causing the noise while making a sharp turn. Their solution was to get new hubs and Dunlop wires and that solved their problem.
> >
> > Question---------have any of you had this problem and if so what did you determine was the issue and how did you solve it?
> >
> > Question #2------The BJ8 steering box is leaking oil (assume bad oil seal) and the dust excluder has disintegrated. Is it possible to replace these 2 items while the steering box is still in the car by removing the lower nut and steering lever?
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
> >
> > tom
> > 65 BJ8
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rfbegani@speakeasy.net
> >
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 17:26:56 -0700
> From: "George" <leavcast at gmail.com>
> To: "'Kimo Briske'" <kimobriske at gmail.com>, "'Healeys'"
> <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Recommendation on sale
> Message-ID: <01c201d0a7cb$2886d8b0$79948a10$@com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> It appears useless for a Healey.
> Oldest vehicle year that one can choose to list is 1993.
>
> George Castleberry
> Flagstaff, AZ
> 54 BN1
> 59AN5
>
> From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kimo Briske
> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 2:48 PM
> To: Healeys
> Subject: [Healeys] Recommendation on sale
>
> I was contacted by sellernetworks.com to list my BT7. Does anyone have experence with them ? Thanks, Jim
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 17
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 22:36:33 -0400
> From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> To: healeys at autox.team.net
> Subject: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <20150615223633.YVPFE.8833.root at pamxwww07-z01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess is still in the car. I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.
>
> I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
>
> Before I try getting this thing off, I assume some of the steering arms must be removed (?)
>
> Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what should be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which seems to be quite fixed at the moment.
>
> thanks
> tom
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 18
> Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 22:50:50 -0400
> From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> To: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> <CAB3i7L+g5x7xn2C_NM3L8fuhd2mJT6=13rsOCJJYpX_r2q7W4g at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Tom,
> I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may be worth reading
> through.
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=967
> I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod
> from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever away
> from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..
> I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge
> about now.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 10:36 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
>
> > I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess is
> > still in the car. I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.
> >
> > I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
> >
> > Before I try getting this thing off, I assume some of the steering arms
> > must be removed (?)
> >
> > Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what should
> > be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which
> > seems to be quite fixed at the moment.
> >
> > thanks
> > tom
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 19
> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 08:43:33 +0100
> From: Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
> To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "healeys at autox.team.net" <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> <CAAh8et=cY6o7U43BSt7ptaDf9c2-TO0+6PDdzJ_h6KWL=as8Sw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> The list is confusing me a little at present as there seems to be several
> different threads on this subject, some of them split into two or three
> parts.
>
> As I mentioned previously I just replaced my steering arm and seal last
> week and I did it with the box still in the car. You need to first
> disconnect the side and centre rods from the arm. It is best if you use a
> ball joint separator to do this as the ends are tapered and remain tightly
> in position after you have removed the nuts.
>
> The most difficult thing is removal of the arm itself as it is attached to
> the splined and tapered end of the steering rocker. It will be very tight
> it is best to use a puller to remove it. The problem is that there is very
> little room to get the puller into position. It will depend on the shape
> and size of the puller. I managed to do it with the puller I purchased but
> it was a bit of a struggle and I had to use it in a position that was not
> exactly perpendicular. If you can get a good grip a couple of turns on the
> end of the puller will free the arm easily. Replace the seal where you are
> there.
>
> Assembly is the reverse of the above.
>
> Derek
>
> On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 3:50 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Tom,
> > I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may be worth reading
> > through.
> > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=967
> > I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod
> > from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever away
> > from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..
> > I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge
> > about now.
> >
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> >
> > On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 10:36 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess
> >> is still in the car. I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.
> >>
> >> I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
> >>
> >> Before I try getting this thing off, I assume some of the steering arms
> >> must be removed (?)
> >>
> >> Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what should
> >> be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which
> >> seems to be quite fixed at the moment.
> >>
> >> thanks
> >> tom
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >>
> >> Healeys at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >>
> >> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> >
> >
> >
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 20
> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 08:51:15 -0400
> From: Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> To: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>, "Healeys at autox.team.net"
> <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID: <55801be8.549b6b0a.a5cd.14b0 at mx.google.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi Tom,
> I don't want to discourage you from trying but in my experience the factory used to really tighten the big nut to ensure that the lever would not come loose on the rocker shaft.
> As I mentioned in my post http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=967
> they are often so tight that the pressure required to separate them is sufficient to crush the end of the shaft or, if the puller isn't straight, actually bend the threaded section of the shaft.
> I would caution you against trying to wedge something between the body of the steering box and the lever as the box is not very strong and is easily broken.
> If you can get the 3 mounting bolts out, separate the side and center rod ball joints and loosen the U clamp under the dash it is possible to rotate the box enough to get the puller described in my blog into position. This saves having to remove the turn signal switch, steering wheel, and grille so is worth the effort.
> Someone on the list gave the number for the seals that have worked for me many times.
> Once you have the lever off it is relatively easy to remove the lid and then the rocker shaft.
> For an exceptional job it's not that expensive to have the area of the rocker shaft where the seal rides built up with "hard chrome" and ground back to size.
> Good luck....maybe you will be lucky and find that someone has had the lever off previously and tightened the nut a little less enthusiastically that the factory guys.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Tom Felts" <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> Sent: ?16/?06/?2015 8:22 a.m.
> To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
>
> More like a refridg full of beers!!:) Do you think that puller can be used while the rack is still mounted in the car? I'm not to keen on taking the whole thing out.
>
> I may end up draining as much old oil out as I can and refilling with JD cornhead grease. Assume mixing a little won't be a problem?
>
> Thanks----appreciate the info.
> tom
> ---- Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> =============
> Tom,
> I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may be worth reading
> through.
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=967
> I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod
> from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever away
> from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..
> I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge
> about now.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 10:36 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net> wrote:
>
> > I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess is
> > still in the car. I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.
> >
> > I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
> >
> > Before I try getting this thing off, I assume some of the steering arms
> > must be removed (?)
> >
> > Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what should
> > be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which
> > seems to be quite fixed at the moment.
> >
> > thanks
> > tom
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
>
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 21
> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 14:42:07 +0100
> From: Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
> To: Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> Cc: "Healeys at autox.team.net" <Healeys at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> <CAAh8etmCi8E8dr4-xAsTdA3yzN6e3diBLTMKP5Cvn8+_p+EOYA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> This what I used, it is from the UK but no doubt you can get something
> similar in the US. If it doesn't work you could try rotating the box as
> suggested by Michael, which should give easier access.
>
> http://www.auravita.com/product/65mm-Reach-x-75mm-Spread-Twin-Leg-Reversible-Puller-13906-Draper.JSOB17033.html?RefId=225&adid=JSOB17033&gclid=Cj0KEQjwkv-rBRDwoMLav-2l9KIBEiQAUTkDU0-EPWV8xUEkXt-NZEjq91sZ5M9oDZ_dPH84PmYtURwaAuKb8P8HAQ
>
> On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 1:51 PM, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi Tom,
> > I don't want to discourage you from trying but in my experience the
> > factory used to really tighten the big nut to ensure that the lever would
> > not come loose on the rocker shaft.
> > As I mentioned in my post http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=967
> > they are often so tight that the pressure required to separate them is
> > sufficient to crush the end of the shaft or, if the puller isn't straight,
> > actually bend the threaded section of the shaft.
> > I would caution you against trying to wedge something between the body of
> > the steering box and the lever as the box is not very strong and is easily
> > broken.
> > If you can get the 3 mounting bolts out, separate the side and center rod
> > ball joints and loosen the U clamp under the dash it is possible to rotate
> > the box enough to get the puller described in my blog into position. This
> > saves having to remove the turn signal switch, steering wheel, and grille
> > so is worth the effort.
> > Someone on the list gave the number for the seals that have worked for me
> > many times.
> > Once you have the lever off it is relatively easy to remove the lid and
> > then the rocker shaft.
> > For an exceptional job it's not that expensive to have the area of the
> > rocker shaft where the seal rides built up with "hard chrome" and ground
> > back to size.
> > Good luck....maybe you will be lucky and find that someone has had the
> > lever off previously and tightened the nut a little less enthusiastically
> > that the factory guys.
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> > ------------------------------
> > From: Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> > Sent: ?16/?06/?2015 8:22 a.m.
> > To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> >
> > More like a refridg full of beers!!:) Do you think that puller can be
> > used while the rack is still mounted in the car? I'm not to keen on taking
> > the whole thing out.
> >
> > I may end up draining as much old oil out as I can and refilling with JD
> > cornhead grease. Assume mixing a little won't be a problem?
> >
> > Thanks----appreciate the info.
> > tom
> > ---- Michael Salter <michaelsalter at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > =============
> >
> > Tom,
> > I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may be worth reading
> > through.
> > http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=967
> > I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod
> > from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever away
> > from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..
> > I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge
> > about now.
> >
> > Michael S
> > BN1 #174
> >
> > On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 10:36 PM, Tom Felts <tomfelts at windstream.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> > > I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess
> > is
> > > still in the car. I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.
> > >
> > > I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
> > >
> > > Before I try getting this thing off, I assume some of the steering arms
> > > must be removed (?)
> > >
> > > Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what should
> > > be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which
> > > seems to be quite fixed at the moment.
> > >
> > > thanks
> > > tom
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > >
> > > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
> >
> >
> >
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 22
> Date: Tue, 16 Jun 2015 09:46:12 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Tim Davis BN7 <tld6008 at mchsi.com>
> To: Derek Job <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
> Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net, Michael <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
> Message-ID:
> <32269224.121461937.1434462372454.JavaMail.zimbra at mchsi.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Get the Pitman arm puller
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: "Derek Job" <derek.c.job at gmail.com>
> To: "Michael" <michael.salter at gmail.com>
> Cc: Healeys at autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, June 16, 2015 8:42:07 AM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
>
> This what I used, it is from the UK but no doubt you can get something similar in the US. If it doesn't work you could try rotating the box as suggested by Michael, which should give easier access.
>
> http://www.auravita.com/product/65mm-Reach-x-75mm-Spread-Twin-Leg-Reversible-Puller-13906-Draper.JSOB17033.html?RefId=225&adid=JSOB17033&gclid=Cj0KEQjwkv-rBRDwoMLav-2l9KIBEiQAUTkDU0-EPWV8xUEkXt-NZEjq91sZ5M9oDZ_dPH84PmYtURwaAuKb8P8HAQ
>
> On Tue, Jun 16, 2015 at 1:51 PM, Michael < michael.salter at gmail.com > wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi Tom,
> I don't want to discourage you from trying but in my experience the factory used to really tighten the big nut to ensure that the lever would not come loose on the rocker shaft.
> As I mentioned in my post http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=967
> they are often so tight that the pressure required to separate them is sufficient to crush the end of the shaft or, if the puller isn't straight, actually bend the threaded section of the shaft.
> I would caution you against trying to wedge something between the body of the steering box and the lever as the box is not very strong and is easily broken.
> If you can get the 3 mounting bolts out, separate the side and center rod ball joints and loosen the U clamp under the dash it is possible to rotate the box enough to get the puller described in my blog into position. This saves having to remove the turn signal switch, steering wheel, and grille so is worth the effort.
> Someone on the list gave the number for the seals that have worked for me many times.
> Once you have the lever off it is relatively easy to remove the lid and then the rocker shaft.
> For an exceptional job it's not that expensive to have the area of the rocker shaft where the seal rides built up with "hard chrome" and ground back to size.
> Good luck....maybe you will be lucky and find that someone has had the lever off previously and tightened the nut a little less enthusiastically that the factory guys.
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> From: Tom Felts
> Sent: ?16/?06/?2015 8:22 a.m.
> To: Michael Salter
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Steering Lever Removal Questions--BJ8
>
> More like a refridg full of beers!!:) Do you think that puller can be used while the rack is still mounted in the car? I'm not to keen on taking the whole thing out.
>
> I may end up draining as much old oil out as I can and refilling with JD cornhead grease. Assume mixing a little won't be a problem?
>
> Thanks----appreciate the info.
> tom
> ---- Michael Salter < michaelsalter at gmail.com > wrote:
>
> =============
>
> Tom,
> I'm not sure if this will be of much help but it may be worth reading
> through.
> http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=967
> I would not think that it is necessary to remove the center or side rod
> from the lever as they should not prevent you from lifting the lever away
> from the box ONCE you get it released from the tapered spline..
> I however would recommend that you put a couple of beers in the fridge
> about now.
>
> Michael S
> BN1 #174
>
> On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 10:36 PM, Tom Felts < tomfelts at windstream.net > wrote:
>
> > I'm starting to "try" to remove the steering lever while the whole mess is
> > still in the car. I've loosened the big nut that holds the lever on.
> >
> > I have pulled as much oil out of the box as I can.
> >
> > Before I try getting this thing off, I assume some of the steering arms
> > must be removed (?)
> >
> > Does anyone who has done this while on the car have a list of what should
> > be disconnected prior to trying to get the steering lever off?----which
> > seems to be quite fixed at the moment.
> >
> > thanks
> > tom
> > _______________________________________________
> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Suggested annual donation $12.75
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> > Healeys at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
> >
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/derek.c.job@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/tld6008@mchsi.com
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
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> Healeys mailing list
> Healeys at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of Healeys Digest, Vol 8, Issue 170
> ***************************************
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