[Healeys] Bleeding brakes

[tom mitchell]

The only time I ‘ve been able to get a vacuum bleeder to work satisfactorily using a short brake line screwed in-place of the bleeder.

It can be a bit messy yet works well.

 

Mike, any chance of some pictures of what you have?

 

Tom Mitchell

1965 Austin Healey BJ8 MKIII

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, July 04, 2015 6:35 PM
To: John Rowe
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes

 

With out any question the best bleeder I have ever used was the Snap-On diaphragm brake bleeder that I have owned for at least 30 years. I don't know if they are still available.

I had to make a special adaptor (using old ski book spring clips) to secure it to a Healey brake fluid reservoir but it makes bleeding brakes a really simple one person job which is fast and completely removes air from the system.

Like most commenters I have found that the vacuum bleeders never produced satisfactory results.

AND I never bleed the brakes in any particular order...:-)

Michael S

BN1 #174



 

 

On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 6:13 PM, John Rowe <john at jtkarowe.com.au <mailto:john at jtkarowe.com.au> > wrote:

I have never had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that same reason of air entering through the thread of the bleeder screw. The bubbles never stop coming!  Always resort to the time honoured version of opening and closing screws

John Rowe

Qld Australia

 

 

From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net> ] On Behalf Of Simon Lachlan
Sent: Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM
To: 'Healey List'
Subject: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes

 

Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it is “best practise” but, in itself does not guarantee success. Many of us have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing to get all the air out. I know that I have.

I’ve got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-

 

“If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a considerable time it is

possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In such cases tighten

the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow the pedal to

return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during the last pedal

application.”

ie you close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it works. The theory is that the air gets past the thread as you close it. Fairly coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of wear.

 

If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the bleeder a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.

Worth bearing in mind.

 

Simon


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If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.

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