[Healeys] Bleeding brakes

[Oudesluys]

I have used an Eezibleed or similar lightly pressurized system for over 
50 years and it has always worked for me on a very large range of vehicles.
A one man job that is done efficiently and quickly.
As remarked before, it is generally a good idea to adjust back your drum 
brakes and push back the calliper pistons (using e few small wedges 
between pads and discs) to minimise the volume in the brake cylinders 
and callipers if the bleed nipples are positioned in such a way that air 
can remain trapped in the cylinders or callipers, although this is a 
fairly rare occurrence.

Kees Oudesluijs


tom mitchell schreef op 8-7-2015 om 1:49:
>
> The only time I ‘ve been able to get a vacuum bleeder to work 
> satisfactorily using a short brake line screwed in-place of the bleeder.
>
> It can be a bit messy yet works well.
>
> Mike, any chance of some pictures of what you have?
>
> Tom Mitchell
>
> 1965 Austin Healey BJ8 MKIII
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of 
> *Michael Salter
> *Sent:* Saturday, July 04, 2015 6:35 PM
> *To:* John Rowe
> *Cc:* Healey List
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
>
> With out any question the best bleeder I have ever used was the 
> Snap-On diaphragm brake bleeder that I have owned for at least 30 
> years. I don't know if they are still available.
>
> I had to make a special adaptor (using old ski book spring clips) to 
> secure it to a Healey brake fluid reservoir but it makes bleeding 
> brakes a really simple one person job which is fast and completely 
> removes air from the system.
>
> Like most commenters I have found that the vacuum bleeders never 
> produced satisfactory results.
>
> AND I never bleed the brakes in any particular order...:-)
>
> Michael S
>
> BN1 #174
>
> On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 6:13 PM, John Rowe <john at jtkarowe.com.au 
> <mailto:john at jtkarowe.com.au>> wrote:
>
>     I have never had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that
>     same reason of air entering through the thread of the bleeder
>     screw. The bubbles never stop coming! Always resort to the time
>     honoured version of opening and closing screws
>
>     John Rowe
>
>     Qld Australia
>
>     *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net
>     <mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net>] *On Behalf Of *Simon Lachlan
>     *Sent:* Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM
>     *To:* 'Healey List'
>     *Subject:* [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
>
>     Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible.
>     ie it is “best practise” but, in itself does not guarantee
>     success. Many of us have been driven mad by spongy brakes after
>     somehow failing to get all the air out. I know that I have.
>
>     I’ve got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-
>
>     “If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
>     considerable time it is
>
>     possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw
>     threads. In such cases tighten
>
>     the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal
>     and allow the pedal to
>
>     return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally
>     during the last pedal
>
>     application.”
>
>     ie you close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy,
>     but it works. The theory is that the air gets past the thread as
>     you close it. Fairly coarse threads. Pretty old bits of
>     iron...plenty of wear.
>
>     If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open
>     the bleeder a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.
>
>     Worth bearing in mind.
>
>     Simon
>
>
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>
> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>
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