[Healeys] Bleeding brakes

[Michael Salter]

With out any question the best bleeder I have ever used was the Snap-On
diaphragm brake bleeder that I have owned for at least 30 years. I don't
know if they are still available.
I had to make a special adaptor (using old ski book spring clips) to secure
it to a Healey brake fluid reservoir but it makes bleeding brakes a really
simple one person job which is fast and completely removes air from the
system.
Like most commenters I have found that the vacuum bleeders never produced
satisfactory results.
AND I never bleed the brakes in any particular order...:-)

Michael S
BN1 #174




On Sat, Jul 4, 2015 at 6:13 PM, John Rowe <john at jtkarowe.com.au> wrote:

> I have never had any luck with those vacuum bleeders, for that same reason
> of air entering through the thread of the bleeder screw. The bubbles never
> stop coming!  Always resort to the time honoured version of opening and
> closing screws
>
> John Rowe
>
> Qld Australia
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces at autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *Simon
> Lachlan
> *Sent:* Saturday, 4 July 2015 9:06 PM
> *To:* 'Healey List'
> *Subject:* [Healeys] Bleeding brakes
>
>
>
> Bleeding the furthest brakes is all very well, but not infallible. ie it
> is “best practise” but, in itself does not guarantee success. Many of us
> have been driven mad by spongy brakes after somehow failing to get all the
> air out. I know that I have.
>
> I’ve got various manuals and one of my two BMC has this paragraph:-
>
>
>
> “If the bleeding of any cylinder continues without success for a
> considerable time it is
>
> possible that air is being drawn in past the bleeder screw threads. In
> such cases tighten
>
> the bleeder screw at the end of each downward stoke of the pedal and allow
> the pedal to
>
> return fully before re-opening it. Close the bleeder screw finally during
> the last pedal
>
> application.”
>
> ie you close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out. Messy, but it
> works. The theory is that the air gets past the thread as you close it.
> Fairly coarse threads. Pretty old bits of iron...plenty of wear.
>
>
>
> If you use an Eazibleed or similar, it becomes easier. Just open the
> bleeder a little and leave it open until the bubbles stop.
>
> Worth bearing in mind.
>
>
>
> Simon
>
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-- 
*If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
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