[Roadsters] Clutch pedal bite point adjustment

[RWM]

Trying to visualize this, Keith.

To best of my knowledge there were no non-OEM parts in the original 
setup, either on the master or slave ends.

Didn't find any spacers on the master-to-firewall or adjustable 
components on pedal-to-master linkage.

- Bob


On 4/5/2017 9:06 AM, Keith0alan at aol.com wrote:
> There are spacers to put between the firewall and the master to do 
> this adjustment if you do not have an adjustable rod between the pedal 
> and master.
> keith
> In a message dated 4/4/2017 3:45:10 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 
> datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net writes:
>
>     There might be some room to move the friction point by adjusting
>     the actuating fork at the slave cylinder. I seem to recall that if
>     there's too much space before the fork (or tang, also called)
>     starts to apply pressure to the slave piston, the pedal's action
>     stays closer to the floor. Conversely, if the adjusting nuts place
>     it too tight, the pedal action remains up high like you're reporting.
>
>     There's a further risk under your conditions of never fully
>     releasing the clutch, so it's worth your time to move the lockdown
>     point of the main nut (with the curved side that rests in the
>     tang) and its locknut, and see if that relocates the action.
>
>     Paul/Annapolis, Md.
>
>     On 4 Apr 2017 12:11 a.m., "rwm--- via Datsun-roadsters"
>     <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>         Just replaced clutch master, slave, flexible line, return
>         springs, due to deterioration, leaks and fluid contamination.
>         Hardware is Nissan OEM.
>
>         The clutch pedal that since 1980 released and bit in the
>         last/bottom quarter of clutch pedal travel now releases and
>         bites in the first/top quarter.
>
>         How do I adjust the bite point back to what I am accustomed?
>
>         Thanks.
>
>         Bob Mann, ’68 2000 Solex
>
>         Sent from my Windows 10 phone
>

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