[Roadsters] Clutch pedal bite point adjustment

[Gordon Glasgow]

I think that only adjusts the height of the pedal off the floor, not the bite point.

 

If the clutch disengages and engages as soon as you touch the pedal, that means there isn’t enough free play at the slave cylinder. If it is too tight, you run the risk of having the throwout bearing being in constant contact with the fingers on the clutch pressure plate. This will wear out the throwout bearing much quicker.

 

If it disengages and engages down near the floor, there’s too much free play. You run the risk of not getting full disengagement if you are trying to shift fast.

 

I usually set mine to the middle of the range.

 

Gordon Glasgow

 

From: Datsun-roadsters [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Keith0alan--- via Datsun-roadsters
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2017 6:07 AM
To: cour.jpeg at gmail.com; rwm at rwmann.com
Cc: datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] Clutch pedal bite point adjustment

 

There are spacers to put between the firewall and the master to do this adjustment if you do not have an adjustable rod between the pedal and master.

 

keith

 

In a message dated 4/4/2017 3:45:10 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net writes:

There might be some room to move the friction point by adjusting the actuating fork at the slave cylinder. I seem to recall that if there's too much space before the fork (or tang, also called) starts to apply pressure to the slave piston, the pedal's action stays closer to the floor. Conversely, if the adjusting nuts place it too tight, the pedal action remains up high like you're reporting. 

 

There's a further risk under your conditions of never fully releasing the clutch, so it's worth your time to move the lockdown point of the main nut (with the curved side that rests in the tang) and its locknut, and see if that relocates the action.

 

Paul/Annapolis, Md.

 

On 4 Apr 2017 12:11 a.m., "rwm--- via Datsun-roadsters" <datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net> wrote:

Just replaced clutch master, slave, flexible line, return springs, due to deterioration, leaks and fluid contamination. Hardware is Nissan OEM.

 

The clutch pedal that since 1980 released and bit in the last/bottom quarter of clutch pedal travel now releases and bites in the first/top quarter.

 

How do I adjust the bite point back to what I am accustomed? 

 

Thanks.

 

Bob Mann, ’68 2000 Solex

 

Sent from my Windows 10 phone

 


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