[Roadsters] Clutch pedal bite point adjustment

[Keith0alan at aol.com]

There are spacers to put between the firewall and the master to do this  
adjustment if you do not have an adjustable rod between the pedal and  master.
 
keith
 
 
In a message dated 4/4/2017 3:45:10 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net writes:

There might be some room to move the friction point by adjusting the  
actuating fork at the slave cylinder. I seem to recall that if there's too  much 
space before the fork (or tang, also called) starts to apply pressure to  
the slave piston, the pedal's action stays closer to the floor. Conversely, if 
 the adjusting nuts place it too tight, the pedal action remains up high 
like  you're reporting.  


There's a further risk under your conditions of never fully releasing the  
clutch, so it's worth your time to move the lockdown point of the main nut  
(with the curved side that rests in the tang) and its locknut, and see if 
that  relocates the action.


Paul/Annapolis, Md.


On 4 Apr 2017 12:11 a.m., "rwm--- via Datsun-roadsters"  
<datsun-roadsters at autox.team.net>  wrote:


 
Just replaced clutch master, slave, flexible line, return  springs, due to 
deterioration, leaks and fluid contamination. Hardware is  Nissan OEM. 
The clutch pedal that since 1980 released and bit in the  last/bottom 
quarter of clutch pedal travel now releases and bites in the  first/top quarter. 
How do I adjust the bite point back to what I am  accustomed?  
Thanks. 
Bob Mann, ’68 2000 Solex 
Sent from my Windows 10 phone 



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