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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">+2 on Morris at West Valley, has taken care=
of gauges from many cars for me. <div>Bill B</div><div>TS30800L<br><br=
><div dir=3D"ltr">=E2=80=9CShoot low sheriff, she=E2=80=99s riding a shetlan=
d=E2=80=9D =E2=80=A6B.Wills</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Apr 2, 2023, at 9:4=
7 PM, Don Hiscock <don.hiscock@gmail.com> wrote:<br><br></div><div dir=
=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"fon=
t-size:small">Note that a small wad of wet aluminum foil is just about *perf=
ect* for cleaning chrome plating to a high, scratch-free shine. It's q=
uite remarkable how well it works if the plating itself is intact. Try=
that on your gauge bezels, Lee, and let us know how they look.</div></div><=
br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, A=
pr 2, 2023 at 8:15=E2=80=AFPM Greg Lemon <<a href=3D"mailto:grglmn@gmail.=
com">grglmn@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quo=
te" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204)=
;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">I cleaned up the gauges on my TR250 mys=
elf. I believe the small gauges come apart the same way as the big one=
s. Loosen some tabs and twist so the tabs line up with the slots to pu=
ll it off. Clean glass as you would clean glass. Gauge faces and=
dials. Gentle is the word, wipe with a damp, soft cloth. T=
here will probably be crud inside, and the interior paint may be flaking, re=
paint with white paint.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">The bez=
els, mine were painted black, so I repainted them black satin. Looks l=
ike yours are chrome, would give the a vigorous polish and see how they turn=
out.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">A completely refini=
shed gauge face is way beyond my skillet, but I read up on a guy who DIYed i=
t and fixed his gauges at home. I will tackle a lot, but really can't i=
magine doing that and having it turn out well.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></=
div><div dir=3D"auto">Sorry, not a very good pic, but all zi could find.</di=
v><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Greg Lemon</div><div dir=3D"=
auto">TR250</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto"> </div><=
/div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On=
Sun, Apr 2, 2023, 4:43 PM <<a href=3D"mailto:lee@automate-it.com"; targe=
t=3D"_blank">lee@automate-it.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D=
"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(20=
4,204,204);padding-left:1ex">I'm replacing the dash on my '74 TR6. The gauge=
s/speedo/tach all work <br>
(maybe not terribly accurate tho!). But, wow, they're pretty grimy <br>
compared to this shiny new wood dash I've got. What's left of the <br>
o-rings is cracked and crumbled. With a little encouragement I can get <br>
the speedo and tach open - but how does one safely open up the <br>
fuel/temp/oil/volts gauges?<br>
<br>
The other option is to send them to a restoration shop (there are <br>
several that show up in a search; note that Nisonger is no longer doing <br>=
repairs but selling replacement units only). Any idea what a <br>
clean-up/check-up would cost for these 6 units? I've got a huge list of <br>=
other things to work on rather than spend the time on these things.<br>
Thanks!<br>
Lee** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"noreferrer" t=
arget=3D"_blank">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br>
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