I am very slow, 3 steps forward, 3 steps backwards:
I've taken things out of order, am now 75% through but have yet to replace all
the floor and sills.
I am doing one side at-a-time. I have removed floor and sills from the
driver's side, and temporaily put the new powdercoated floorpan in place.
Since it's been over two years since I did this, I will be studying Dave
Connit's TR4 site at
http://home.fuse.net/davestr4a/TR4A_Restoration/index.html
to find out what I need to remember. Of course, his TR4 and my TR3 will differ
some- I guess. Also, I need to teach myself the fine art of mig welding which
I never did very good at the Vo Tech School. So, if I don't continue to pester
the list with questions, rest assured that I'm 'pushin' up daises' somewhere
and ask for me at the Pearly Gates (maybe this list has a chatroom up there!
Up...-right?)
Another liberty I've taken on myself, or rather done to my car is to
have already removed the door bracing! WHAT? I Can hear people say. Since
this PROJECT has taken years rather than months, those pieces of pipe have
since fallen off (or needed for adding his-and-her's bathtubs). So I guess
what I'll essentially be doing...kinda... is like a 2-piece body reattachment
(Although the passenger's floorpan and sill have yet to be disturbed in order
to obtain maximum reference points...yada..yada. It's possible this intact
floorpan and rusted sills might have warped with the caved in rusting that
occured and driver's side pieces taken out! OMG Up...-right?
The first thing I need to do, since engine and tranny are installed with body
on the chassis is:
1. Finish mountiing body to chassis
2. Install the All-threaded-door-adjustable bracing-JIG up to door gap. THIS
JIG HAS 2 PEICES OF ALL-THREADED RODS RUNNING BETWEEN THE A POST AND THE B POST.
With this done how essential is the side-to-side cross tube from left B-post
to right-B post? At this late date, I'd think I might be able to do without
this brace?
3. Offer up the correct door for continually monitoring a (hopefully
continuous 3/16"ths door gap for ALL door gaps - both leading and trailing
edges AND UNDERNEATH GAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4. ONLY PROCEED WITH THE FLOORPAN, INNER AND OUTER SILLS IF THESE GAPS ARE
CORRECT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
<<ANY COMMENTS?>>
THANKS,
PAUL DORSEY
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