> After virtually re-building drag-link including new silent block bushings,
> idler arm, re-balancing and alignment, changing wheels for best
> up front, we
> drive smooth then a noticable vibration at 50 MPH, steady and
> rough to 60 MPH
> then SEEMS to smooth out some. So I am now blocked.
How much runout do you see at the rim of the wheel ? Jack the car up and
spin the wheel, then watch the edge next to the tire. I don't recall a spec
offhand, but anything over 1/16" is suspect, IMO. Since the problem doesn't
seem to follow the wheels, it might well be a bad hub.
How are the wheel bearings ? If you temporarily snug the adjustment up
until there's a very slight resistance, are the bearings smooth ? If you
now try to wiggle the wheel (with the bearings still snug), is there any
movement at all ? Some fore/aft is permissible, but there should be no
detectable vertical play. Don't forget to back the adjustment off
afterwards.
How were the wheels/tires balanced ? If it was by the usual method of
gripping the center hole, you might try finding someplace that has a
balancer that locates on the lug holes instead. Or, have them balanced on
the car. You'll have to call around for a shop that can do it on the car,
try places that deal with big trucks.
FWIW, a friend of mine that ran a tire shop for many years insists that
bubble balancers do a better job. He generally used a spin balancer in his
shop because it was quicker, but any car that came back for vibration was
rebalanced with the bubble balancer (that located on the lug holes). He
claims it solved most of his come-backs. It also solved an 'impossible'
problem with my motorhome, so perhaps there's something to his theory.
Randall
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