Ah spot welds... if you use a small regular bit and drill a pilot - it still
takes a steady hand to keep from going clean through - it helps keep the
spot weld bit on track, somewhat... I ended up just using a regular bit a
lot to "overdrill" and grinding it smooth. The beautiful thing is, almost
all the spot welds are covered by trim pieces, furflex or carpeting so if
you get it a bit raggy nobody will know!
Hey Paul T. - how 'bout a poll on who hates drilling out spot welds? *grin*
"Any drive you don't return from on a tow truck was a good one..."
Jon
'77 (mostly) 1500 "Ol' Yeller"
FM66043 7U
Nass #104 VTR #14429
www.yankeespitfire.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "scotts junk" <smacsjunk@hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>; <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 12:34 AM
Subject: spot weld removal
> I'm in the process of replacing the rear wing on my Mk3 GT6, which
involves
> taking out about 300 spot welds. Picked up 3 handy dandy little spot weld
> removers, thinking that would be plenty - wrong. After about 8 or 10
welds,
> a tooth breaks off, quickly followed by the remaining teeth. Have I just
> picked up a poor quality brand? Am I missing something in the technique
> (been real careful to keep the tool centered on the punch mark after the
> first one jumped off and insantly snapped a tooth)? Does the fact that
about
> half the welds are near enough the edge of the flange that the tool is
> operating over the edge damage it? Should I just bite the bullet and spend
> more on spot weld removers than I paid for the new wing :->?? Any thoughts
> or experience in this area appreciated.
>
> thanks
> Scott
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