Simply use a standard center point drill bit.
(looks like a mini tip at the end of a normal drill bit)
This way you have a tiny center hole with a larger
main hole. Since the main bit is somewhat 'stepped'
it'll cut through the first layer, and you can easily stop before it hits
the good, second layer of metal.
Or... like I did ... grind that puppy away.
Paul Tegler
ptegler@cablespeed.com
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "scotts junk" <smacsjunk@hotmail.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>; <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2003 12:34 AM
Subject: spot weld removal
> I'm in the process of replacing the rear wing on my Mk3 GT6, which
involves
> taking out about 300 spot welds. Picked up 3 handy dandy little spot weld
> removers, thinking that would be plenty - wrong. After about 8 or 10
welds,
> a tooth breaks off, quickly followed by the remaining teeth. Have I just
> picked up a poor quality brand? Am I missing something in the technique
> (been real careful to keep the tool centered on the punch mark after the
> first one jumped off and insantly snapped a tooth)? Does the fact that
about
> half the welds are near enough the edge of the flange that the tool is
> operating over the edge damage it? Should I just bite the bullet and spend
> more on spot weld removers than I paid for the new wing :->?? Any thoughts
> or experience in this area appreciated.
>
> thanks
> Scott
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