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Re: Rustproofing

To: Mickylong@aol.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Rustproofing
From: "Scott A. Roberts" <herald1200@comcast.net>
Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2002 22:01:01 -0400
References: <161.125ba211.2a8d9d17@aol.com>
My entire Herald frame, underbody, inner side of wings and fenders, and
floor from front to back is coated with POR-15.  I can say I found it to be
pretty much as advertised, however-

1. Use the "Satin Black" as opposed to the regular.  The regular is too
glossy, and doesn't dry to an even sheen. (Might not see it, but why make it
ugly anyway?

2. It does apply well with a brush, just be very sure to wear a good grade
of rubber gloves when so doing. They aren't kidding when they say the stuff
stays on you after it dries!(ask me how I know...) Also, be sure to wear
beat up-able clothes, as once it is on your clothes, you have a friend for
life.

3. If the surface is not properly prepped, it won't adhere well. I found the
regular black to be more particular this way. I used their "Metal Ready"
over everything, and it seemed to help, but I still had places where it
lifted, albeit with a bit of effort.(I.E.- I scratched it badly.)

4. It will make a wonderful seam-seal, if allowed to run into crevices. I
used this method to advantage a few times.

5. Their two part epoxy stuff is really as good as it says. I used a bit of
it, and when dried, it is almost ceramic in hardness. (I made a 1/2" ball
out of a little extra, and I'm sure I could use it with black powder to
effect! Very hard stuff.)

6. The "Tie-Bond" primer works well, and goes on easily when sprayed. A
little bluer shade than regular gray primer, it does a very good job, and
bonds to the POR-15.

7. Get twice as much as you think you'll need. And don't plan on cleaning
and reusing the brushes. Don't buy brushes which allow any shedding! I have
stray hairs in some neat places, though they'll never be seen.

Good luck with it. It is good stuff.

Oh- and a storage hint- glass 1qt. Ball jar. Take a new rubber glove, and
lay it tightly across the top (palm across top, to make two layers) and put
on lid. I have done this successfully often. If ANY air gets in after
sealing, you will end up with either a thick skin, or a bottle of solid
POR-15. Also, if the can you receive is dented, let them know- I did,
complained I couldn't close it properly, and they sent me a new one! They
also told me about the ball or mason jar trick. Good people to deal with.

NFI,

Scott
64 Herald 1200 Convertible

----- Original Message -----
From: <Mickylong@aol.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2002 8:11 PM
Subject: Rustproofing


> Does anyone have any firsthand experience with a product called Por 15?
I've
> got my TR6 interior pretty much gutted and want to coat the floorpan to
> prevent having to deal with future rust (only a minimum of surface rust
now)
> before installing the new rugs and seats.  Someone sent me a trial pack of
> Por 15, which is supposed to be better than paint for providing a harder
> coating.  Before I commit, I thought I'd get a read on this option (a
pretty
> long three-step process) vs. others.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Micky Long, Atlanta
> 72 TR6

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