Just completed my '61 TR4 front end work and had the
same concerns you have... Here are my tips:
- If you can remove the upper pivot pin (4 bolts on
the top of the shock tower) it is a lot easier to
install the upper A arms and bushings off the car,
then just bolt the upper pivot pin to the top of the
shock tower and you are ready to continue... If the
bushings won't slide on easily then use a little
(50/50) water/liquid soap mix to help slide them on.
This stuff will dry out of your bushings over time so
they will retain their proper friction
characteristics.
- If you have removed the lower A arms and the sleeves
that slide over the lower pivot pins then you are in
good shape there - this part should slide right
together without much difficulty. I installed the
nylon bushings into the lower A arms first and then
slid this assembly over the sleeves to complete the
lower assembly. Make sure you install the pinion
assembly in between the lower A arms at the same time
since these three parts all inter-connect and need to
be installed simultaneously.
- The old bushings on the outer (lower) A arms can be
difficult to remove but look at your new ones and note
that they are slotted (split). The originals are this
way as well so this makes removal easier if you don't
have a shop press. I used a hack saw (slid the blade
through the old bushing and then mounted the blade in
the hack saw frame) to cut a corresponding split in
the bushing (just through the bushing and not into the
A arm). Remove the hacksaw blade and use a thin
screwdriver to pop (pry) out the old bushing pieces.
- The new bushings are a tight fit so a shop press is
ideal. If you don't have one then a good solid copper
hammer or other soft metal hammer can be used to drive
the new bushings into the A arms. Be careful not to
flare the bushings or otherwise damage them using this
method (somewhat crude). Even a small block of wood
with a traditional hammer will influence them into the
A arms if needed.
- You can test fit the pinion assembly with the newly
inserted lower bushings to see how much (if any)
reaming will need to be done. I was lucky and my
pinion assembly was somewhat worn and fit just about
perfectly with the new bushings. If you are not so
lucky then you will need to use a hand reamer or other
reaming method (drill bit) to clear away just enough
surface material in the new bushing to allow for a
nice snug fit with the pinion shafts.
- Form here on out it is assembly in the reverse of
removal. It is a lot easier to install your new
shocks if you jack up the spring so that the lower A
arm is about horizontal.
- One last tip (with rubber bushings) the factory
recommends fully loading the car (with people, etc.)
before tightening the upper A arm nuts. The theory is
that that the rubber bushings have the opportunity to
position themselves in their sleeves before being
tightened. I used Poly bushings that don't twist like
rubber so I did not do this.
Dave D. - CT0675
------------------------------
>
> Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:33:09 -0700 (PDT)
> From: richard triplett <rtriplett25@yahoo.com>
> Subject: tr3 suspension reassemble
>
> First, thanks go out to those that have offered
> advice
> re the ressurection of my 59 TR3 engine. It's not
> quite complete yet, but should be fired up soon. In
> the meantime, I am going to start reassembling the
> front suspension. I got the magic suspension kit
> from
> TRF, as well as new springs and shocks. So I'm in
> business (I hope!). My concern is with the bushings.
> I've heard some need to be reemed and some are
> tricky
> to get on (everything has been stripped down, so at
> least that part is done). If you can offer any
> been-there-done-that advice on this part of the
> restoration, I would be most grateful. Specifically,
> I'm hoping to find out what special tools I need. I
> am
> going with plain ol' rubber bushings.
>
> TIA!
>
> Richard
> TS42099L
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