Hi Bob
I have done this once on the 2000 saloon (same basic diff), re-using the
crown wheel and pinion, the main aim being the installation of new bearings
and oil seals.
I made a case spreader from angle iron and 5/8 studding, based on the
Churchill tool design, I would probably build it on a more simple design if
I was doing it again. What I did was to get a ground plate and using my
depth micrometer measure the height of the pinion rear face, then reassemble
to that height, then all the black magic goes into getting the crown wheel
in and out of mesh right. I do not know whether the new CW&P sets have the
height offset etched on like the old ones, but if they do you could add or
subtract that from the original height, so if you had a +0.001 originally
and the new one was +0.002 then you would need to subtract 0.001 from the
reading on the depth mic of your old pinion. This would assume that the
pinion bearings were still in original condition. This could possibly be
ascertained by the pinion preload test.
Would I do it again? Well the diff in my other car 2.5PI is whining and will
need to be rebuilt, I may just take a chance on an exchange unit, I am not
sure, I am always dubious about the cheaper units and I can D.I.M. cheaper
than the dearer units.
With regard to the ratios, I have a 3.45 in my 2000 saloon, original ratio
4.11, it now accelerates about the right pace for a large car of that age
and isn't screaming its nuts off at highway speeds. top speed is no change
90 mph ish, the only difference being with the 4.11 it was on the red line
(revved out), with the 3.45 there just aint enough horses to push the brick
any faster (powered out).
The British market 2500 saloons all used the 3.45 ratio so I would say go
that way, for a little more relaxed cruising, I doubt if most of us would
miss the acceleration lost through this.
Graham.
----- Original Message -----
From: <bob@bob.mclaughlin.name>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2002 5:03 PM
Subject: TR6 Differential Woes
Has anyone replaced the Crown Ring and Pinion on a TR6
differential?
I have a TR6 with catastrophic differential damage.
The crown ring and pinion are both missing teeth.
I have opened the diff case and have confirmed the broken
teeth. Everything else seemed normal to the eye, plenty of
oil, etc. Pinion isn't loose, and spins normally till it
encounters the damaged areas.
Any speculation on the cause of the damage? What else might
need replacing?
The diff mounts (always a weak point) are fine, and I have
replaced the 6 Universal Joints while the diff is out just
because it seemed like time to do it. None showed exessive
wear.
The gears are in the catalog at 3.7:1 or 3.45:1. What's the
difference? Why 2 ratio's?
I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has rebuilt, or
tried to, a tr6 rear-end. Any advice would be apprecieated.
Bob
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