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Re: TR4 Window Regulator Question

To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: TR4 Window Regulator Question
From: "Kurtis" <kurtisj@cox-internet.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 00:03:16 -0700
References: <18.13c28721.28fa610f@aol.com>
Carl,

Thanks for the reply.  Even with the window removed, the two connection
points to the bottom window channel appear to be out of whack... the rear
connection point rides higher than the front.

Unfortunately, the tie rod that you mentioned at the bottom appears to be
missing from my car. :(  I just checked Moss, and that part doesn't seem to
be available.

I suppose I need to play around with it some more, and see if I can't find a
way to better secure the rails.  It seems that a spacer wedged between the
rail and the door end at about the mid point would limit spread of the
channels.

Kurtis J.
Russellville, Arkansas
1963 TR4

Kurtis
----- Original Message -----
From: <CarlSereda@aol.com>
To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2001 8:31 PM
Subject: TR4 Window Regulator Question


> Kurtis,
> Your channels may need rebuilding (felts) and some channel adjustments
> (alignments) can be made - SURPRIZE!  When the channel felts get tattered
and
> window gets sloppy it can cause misalignments and force channels to
'spread'
> front and back and even bend outward - usually exagerated at the
bottom-most
> area - and if the glass is guided by the sloppy rear channel - you got
> 'crooked window syndrome'. The more it hangs up the worse things can get -
> bent channels. There is a guide wire at bottom that can be twanked to pull
> the channels toward each other to hug the glass better and straighten
> channels up to be parallel again. I pulled my channels out last year and
> installed new felts from RevingtonTR (UK) for $4.50 each channel - not the
> best fitting. If you have the money new channels at $50 each (and 2 each
> door) would go a long way to firming things up. I also had to re-attach 3
of
> the 6 brackets (brazed) as the wimpy rivets had let go. The nylon guides
near
> top of channels can wear out but a little squeeze in the vise easily takes
up
> wear.
> On my car the windsheild 'slant' was more than normal from all that
too-tight
> soft top stretching - plus someone had replaced the windsheild prior and
used
> damaged brackets. Driver side window gets the most abuse on all the
> mechanicals involved - your passenger side should be much better shape.
> Also you may have found 3-part plastic water curtains attached to the
glass
> base bracket - they keep your pressboard door panels from doing the watuzi
> (warping big time) during rainy season... if they aren't there someone
must
> have ripped the usually mangled things out .. I am putting 15mil plastic
> curtains in mine..
>
> Carl
> '63 TR4
>
> >>Subject: TR4 Window Regulator Question
>
> Okay... while I'm waiting for steering parts to arrive, I decided to dig
into
> my side window/windscreen frame fit problem.  I have the interior panel
off
> the door, and here's what I've found:
>
> When I roll the window up or down, the widow channel is not parallel to
the
> door.  The rear end of the channel sits higher than the front.  This
causes
> the top of the glass to strike the windscreen frame before the window is
> completely rolled up.
>
> The stop bracket (including the bolt, nut and washer) that mounts roughly
> half-way up on the door (Bentley Fig. 43 No. 72).  Everything else appears
to
> be connected properly.
>
> Okay... before I start taking stuff apart and experimenting, does anyone
have
> any advice or suggestions?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kurtis J.
> Russellville, Arkansas
> 1963 TR4<<

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