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Re: 15 year stopped GT6

To: "Martin Secrest" <msecrest@erols.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: 15 year stopped GT6
From: "Rave Racer" <Ravewar@home.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2001 19:17:04 -0400
References: <000e01c10d56$3ed24240$94c82a18@glph1.on.wave.home.com> <004901c10d5f$39227be0$eb2a2c42@p3l1j5>
    Right!  Sorry, I should have been more specific.  If I leave the MC for
a few days and try it, I get one good solid pump, then it gets stuck full
pedal.  I have to leave it to recoil on it's own for weeks at a time to get
a full pedal.  After a few days, I can get about 1/4 of effective brake
pedal travel.

    I know the brakes are more important then gas, that's why I'm so
frustrated.  I got the car running in 3 days, the clutch working in 10 days,
but it's taken me nearly 2 more months to try to get the money together to
get the brakes working.  I'm waiting for that before I try to break the
clutch free.  It's rusted together still and I think the only way to get it
apart is by jarring it free.

    You said that there may be somewhere in the states that'll sell rebuilds
for $200?  Do you know where?  Would it be to much trouble to ask for that
info?

    Thanks in advance.

       Rave Racer
 89 Jetta GTX 1.8 16V (Frankenstein) http://www.vwot.org/members/Pete.html
 87 Audi 4000 Quattro Sedan
 72 Triumph GT6


> You didn't say what you mean by your M/C "going dead," or what it was
doing,
> but let's assume you have poor or no pressure.  If your M/C is original to
> the car, and not a rebuild, and the bore is not scratched or nicked, you
can
> hone it and rebuild it.  For that you'll need an appropriate size hone.
> There should be instructions on honing w/the tool, but if not, you will be
> moving the hone in and out of the bore smoothly, turning it slowly, and
> using a cutting lubricant like WD40.  You're trying to achieve an even,
> matte finish inside the bore, then lubricating the seals and parts w/your
> brake fluid as you reassemble.  Some people "bench bleed" the M/C before
> reinstalling, but I never found that to be necessary.
>
> If your M/C is a rebuild (check the bottom -- there should be a plate
> identifying it as such), then you will probably not be able to locate an
> oversize rebuild kit ... hence, you'll need to buy a "new" M/C -- which
will
> be a rebuilt unit, about $200 U-S.  Note that if the slave cylinders at
your
> brakes are in poor shape, they may begin leaking once you install the new
> unit, due to the higher pressure of the new M/C.  So this is a good time
to
> think about rebuilding those, too.
>
> As a bottom line, brakes are one thing on your car you should take very
> seriously.  Good luck!


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