You didn't say what you mean by your M/C "going dead," or what it was doing,
but let's assume you have poor or no pressure. If your M/C is original to
the car, and not a rebuild, and the bore is not scratched or nicked, you can
hone it and rebuild it. For that you'll need an appropriate size hone.
There should be instructions on honing w/the tool, but if not, you will be
moving the hone in and out of the bore smoothly, turning it slowly, and
using a cutting lubricant like WD40. You're trying to achieve an even,
matte finish inside the bore, then lubricating the seals and parts w/your
brake fluid as you reassemble. Some people "bench bleed" the M/C before
reinstalling, but I never found that to be necessary.
If your M/C is a rebuild (check the bottom -- there should be a plate
identifying it as such), then you will probably not be able to locate an
oversize rebuild kit ... hence, you'll need to buy a "new" M/C -- which will
be a rebuilt unit, about $200 U-S. Note that if the slave cylinders at your
brakes are in poor shape, they may begin leaking once you install the new
unit, due to the higher pressure of the new M/C. So this is a good time to
think about rebuilding those, too.
As a bottom line, brakes are one thing on your car you should take very
seriously. Good luck!
===
Martin Secrest
73 GT6 (driver)
72 TR6 (weekender)
Arlington, VA
"I think we all agree, the past is over." - George W. Bush
> Question: I had a problem with my brake Master Cylinder. It went
> dead. I was wondering if I'm supposed to fill both chambers of the
reservoir
> or just the front one. If I got brake fluid in the rear one would it go
dead?
> If the MC was working would there be something else that would make it act
> like this? After I took it out to see if I could get it fixed or replaced
it
> seemed to work again when I squeezed it to drain it. Does that make sense
or
> should it still be able to make pressure enough to mislead me into
thinking
> it's ok?
>
> Allright, if it's broken, can anyone tell me somewhere to get a
new
> one, a suitable other replacement, or rebuild this one for less then $500
Can
> (Approx $300 USD)? That seems to be the going rate for a brand new one
from
> Leyland UK, imported. I've been searching for over two months now. Close
to
> Toronto would be cool, but if it has to go somewhere far for rebuild,
that's
> ok.
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