Carl :
My books seem somewhat contradictory on the point. The factory manual
doesn't even quote the clearance, but says "... no adjustments are
likely to be required until 200,000 miles ..." and goes on to recommend
only 'adjusting' the end float by lapping down the housing even then.
The Haynes manual has the .010" figure, and a diagram that clearly shows
it being measured with the gears in the housing. It also says you
should probably replace the pump during any major overhaul.
For myself, I'd probably stick with the original pump, knowing that it's
not too hard to change on the car. Check the outer rotor carefully for
cracks while putting some pressure on it with your fingers. Lap the
body down to get the specified .0005" to .0025" end float.
OTOH, $40 is cheap insurance. There have been some reports of problems
with the replacement gear sets, so check all clearances carefully.
Especially end float, as someone (even the factory) may have lapped the
body <g>
Don't overlook changing cam bearings. They seem to be a common cause of
low oil pressure in rebuilt engines.
Randall
CarlSereda@aol.com wrote:
>
> Anyone have the experience of measuring their oil pump rotor clearances? My
> manuals say wear between inner and outer rotor should not to be above .010.
> Mine measures from .007 to .009 on four points if I measure with the rotors
> in place but if I take rotors out of the case I get more like .020.
> My low oil pressure I'm sure is due to worn bearings (down to copper) but am
> thinking of replacing rotor innards on the pump while I have it out - don't
> want to spend the $40 if it's not neccessary though - any thoughts out there?
> Carl
> '64 TR4 since '74 (approx. 150,000 miles on the oil pump and I still had
> pretty good oil pressure to the rockers)
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