Randall Young wrote:
>
> Well, I disagree. The dial indicator is useful for checking cam lobe
> wear (in the car!), measuring end float for the steering box, setting up
> the transmission and rear end, checking brake runout, etc. I also used
> mine to find out that the machine shop did not hone my new valve guides
> as I asked! The stand and gauge are only about $25 at Enco.
I'm not sure, from the above, the extent to which you disagree with
whomever, but I do second your opinions about a dial indicator. For
people who either assume their own repairs or wish to give knowledgeable
information to their automotive machine shop, a dial indicator is a very
helpful tool.
I would mention, for the benefits of interested others, that Enco is
just about out of business--they have been bought out by MSC, and most
of their regional outlets have been closed.
> The only things on Mike's list that I don't own and use are :
> 1) Ridge reamer. (I just bang 'em out)
I'm confused by this ("bang `em out"). Do you mean hone ridges out of
the cylinders? If so, not a good practice. And, ridge reamers are pretty
cheap, so there's some false economy in not buying one.
> 2) Small hole gauge set (I use the dial indicator for valve guides)
A small hole gauge set measures go-no go diameters. I presume you mean
that you use your dial indicator to indicate valve stem movement in the
guide--it's impossible to accurately measure the guide ID with a dial
indicator.
> 3) Valve spring pressure checker (assuming that's what he meant, I just
> bought new ones instead)
For normal automotive use, the spring pressure checker is not too
valuable (for serious racing use, yes, it is). But, simply buying new
springs does not guarantee uniformity of spring pressure and total load.
I work with a guy who used to race Formula Vee, and he said that he once
had to check spring pressure on over 400 springs to find a single
matched set for a VW engine. (!)
> 4) Piston ring file and expander (Just do it by hand, with care)
Both tools are less than the cost of breaking a single ring and having
to buy a replacement set if single rings are not available, and that's
nothing compared to the eventual cost of scratching pistons or breaking
rings getting the rings on. A cheap and suitable ring expander is less
than $10.
> I just bought one of HF's seal driver sets (half price, I couldn't
> resist). Sure enough, the very next seal I needed to drive (rocker arm
> in the steering), the HF set dowsn't fit ! Oh well, back to using a
> Craftsman socket <g>
That works, too, provided the seal isn't damaged in the process
(necessity is a mutha <g>).
For what little it's worth, I've worked as a professional mechanic off
and on for about 25 years, and have worked for six years as a prototype
machinist, doing fabrication, welding and machining in the process of
building prototype machines for mining and mineral research. I've
designed and built conveyor belt machines that ran at belt speeds of a
car on the highway and at temperatures around that of liquid
nitrogen--about -190 deg. F. So, given that, I will say this about
measuring tools:
Knowing how to use measuring tools is more valuable than owning them. If
one doesn't want to learn how to use them well, don't bother buying
them. It's a waste of one's money.
All around, the best tools for the occasional car hobbyist to have on
hand are these:
0" to 5-6" dial calipers--easy to use and very useful for all sorts of
tasks... accurate in even untrained hands to a few thousandths of an
inch.
Dial indicator--very useful, and with some care in setup, can produce
very accurate measurements. Magnetic base for same is useful, but not
necessary--a little cleverness in designing holders can go a long way.
Nevertheless, a magnetic base is useful and not very expensive for the
average hobbyist, and much more convenient than home-made mounts. Useful
for valve timing and travel measurements, measuring crankshaft endplay
on pesky TR6 engines, measuring disc brake rotor runout and other
interesting tasks.
Feeler gauges--a simple, accurate, cheap tool with a variety of uses.
Micrometer set--nice to have, but not absolutely necessary if a dial
caliper with a deep enough throat is available. A simple rule of thumb
for dial calipers--if the throat depth is less than the total indicated
travel, the dial calipers can't be used to measure something round to
their maximum travel. Micrometers are usually made to accommodate a
diameter slightly exceeding their range. Micrometers are useful for
measuring journal diameters, and a decent set is not that expensive
these days, unless one wants digital readout. In that case, I can only
say, it's much cheaper to learn how to read a vernier micrometer than to
pay for a digital readout, handy as that may be.
Inside micrometers--not nearly as easy to use as a dial-indicator bore
gauge, but cheaper, for only one reason. Bore gauges have a limited
range, so several must be purchased, while inside mikes are usually only
available as a complete set over a fairly wide range of diameters, and
are considerably cheaper. But, bore gauges are much easier to use. If
one's only intent is to use the bore gauge to measure engine cylinders,
then it's generally a waste of money. One would pay for five or six
cylinder boring jobs for the price of one really good bore gauge. And a
reputable automotive machine shop probably isn't lying to you about
cylinder bore measurements (unless they far too quickly suggest they can
get you a set of new pistons in the correct bore oversize). If the
intended purpose of the tool is to check before rebuilding or boring,
the inside mike setor the advice of a reputable machine shop will do
fine (having said that, one of the things on my Christmas shopping list
is a bore gauge, since I recently purchased a milling machine with which
I plan to do some precision boring).
A really good straightedge--cheap, and in combination with a little
skill and good feeler gauges, will tell you if you really need to have
that cylinder head machined. A good straightedge is a good diagnostic
tool for all sorts of things.
A good machinist's square--Properly used, in combination with feeler
gauges or a dial caliper, can tell about misalignment of all sorts of
parts, rough estimates of wheel camber (in combination with a level or
plumb bob), and can be an aid in assembling parts.
A good working tape measure--in graduations of 1/32nd of an inch, it's
the cheapest tool ever made with regard to its usefulness. And, it works
for house repairs, too. <g>
Cheers, all.
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