Jack Levy - Computer Consultants - Hwd. FL schrieb:
>
> With all this talk about HVLP this and that... What is the minimum that
> someone with a decent compressor (me 4 HP Crafstman) would need to get
> started. I want to paint my Spitfire, I was quoted $1700 without painting
> the engine compartment. How about where to paint, how hard is it outside,
> how long does it take to dry. I looked at Fred Thomas' suggestion
> (http://www.horizonweb.com/wwwboard/Spray_101/wwwboard.html) it's very
> informative. In a nutshell what would some of you recommend.
>
> Jack
>
> 76 TR6
> 80 Spitfire
> 80 TR8
>
>
I have just finished painting my TR 6 outside part by part. I tryed a lot of
things, made many mistakes, learnd a lot by doing and found at last a way that
workes very good for me even outside. I`ll tell you how I did it.
My TR 6 was a rasther worn out car which was imported from South Carolina with:
little rustholes in the floor panels
little bubbles on the front wing around headlights.
At some time a new painting was sprayed over the factory paint and there were a
lot of cracks, looking like spider webs.
At the time of buying my TR 6 I didnīt think of any trouble involved with the
bubbles and cracks in the painting. I wanted to paint it anyway. But I found
out
that both things are indicators of big trouble to come.
The bubbles mean that rust has gone throuh the body from inside to outside and
new metal is needed. The cracks indicated a lot of putty under the painting and
at last an accident. The car was hit front left, rear left and left side door
and wings and after this it was "repaired" by a putty artist. Next time I buy a
car I need to have a magnet with me.
That far about my starting point.
The right way to do most of the body job DIY at home and outside is:
Remove all wings, doors, bonnet and hood lid. Check for rust and former
repairs.
Decide now if you want to repair/reuse it or if you better get a new one.
Remove undercoating if it is in places where rust repairs will take place.
Give the removed parts to a good sandblaster shop and have the rusted places
and
all outside edges blasted to bare metal. Good painting on the inner areas can
stay in place. This way you can see what is under the painting at the starting
places of rust. I stopped sandblasting myself infront of my garage after I
found
out that it took me twice as long to get myself clean after sandblasting than
the sandblasting lasted. BTW the professional job is not that expensive and
they
have the right equipment and blasting materials from glasspearls to ironballs
for all kinds of old parts. After this it will probably be necessary to do some
welding and tin work.
After this is done you will have to brush or spray anti rust primer on the bare
metal. Always use silicon/oil remover fluid first before applying any primer,
filler, painting .
After this apply filler on the whole surface which will be painted. Treat old,
intact painting areas with 400 wet sanding paper first.
Spray on new painting. Use a good 2 K acrylic paint. Dry in about 1/2 hour.
Hard enough for handling in about 5 hours. If it gets in contact with old
painting make trials if old and new paint behave neutral (OK) or if something
else happens (not OK, then all old paint has to be removed). Donīt be cheap
with
the paint gun. I use a SATA gun made of stainless steel and the gaskets are
teflon. If a paint gun doesnīt work right and relyable all the preparing work
for painting is worth nothing. You have to start again with sanding some other
day and the expensive paint is wasted.
Also use a water trap on your compressor.
Always use primer, filler, paint and cellulose putty from one company. You can
use cellulose putty on primer, filler and sanded paint to smoothen uneven
spots.It canīt be used on bare metal and needs no filler after sanding.
Polyester putty can be used on bare metal and needs filler after sanding.
I do my painting outside. The ground has to be wet to keep dust on the floor.
No
new cars should be nearby and no neighbours laundry in sight. In fact it helps
if you donīt have close neighbours or at least to be sure they are out.
Spray 3 or more layers of paint just as written in the data sheet of the paint
maker.
Use a good respirator.
Give it time to get dry. Donīt worry about the flys and maybe dust on
your new painting. Just wait until it is completly hard(1 day).
Apply 800 wet-sandpaper an the whole painted surface. Now the flys and
dust parts are no longer there or visible. Be carefull not to get through the
new painting layers.
Spray 2 K acrylic clear paint on your part
After itīs dry and hard sand with 2000 wet sandpaper
Use 3M finishing paste on the complete painted surface. Polish by hand or with
an electric tool.-------Makes very high glosss surface
Apply a good auto wax without silicon.
Super high gloss body job finished.
If a car is not that badly rusted as my TR 6 was painting can be done with
wings
etc. in place. But one should be sure that there is no rust.
BTW I got most of the tips from interviewing body shop owners.
I hope my experiences help someone to get quicker a high quality DIY painting.
Gerhard
CC 31998 LO
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