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Re: Brakes

To: fergie@ntplx.net
Subject: Re: Brakes
From: Joe Curry <spitlist@gte.net>
Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 11:17:27 -0700
Cc: "Hassan, Erkan" <hassan@pharmacy.ab.umd.edu>, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Organization: Curry Enterprises
References: <2675874001425FD9@pharmacy.ab.umd.edu> <35D85C5E.A914711E@gte.net> <35D86D11.4DCB7BE0@ntplx.net>
Michael,
If you have a machine handy, it's probably a pretty good idea.  However,
since most of us don't, the best alternative is to install them and spin
the wheel to see if there is any noticable variance (wobble) as it
spins.

I have replaced several disks in the past few years and I haven't had
any problems so far.  (Knock on wood).

Joe

Michael Ferguson wrote:
> 
> Re: Rotors
> 
> My local mechanic (non-LBC) tells me that, whenever they install new rotors, 
>they ALWAYS put them on the machine to make sure they are true. Apparently, in 
>their experience, new rotors are not always true so they turn them just a 
>little to be on the safe side. Anyone have an opinion on this?
> 
> Joe Curry wrote:
> 
> > Hassan, Erkan wrote:
> >
> > > 1.  I assume it is normal for the rotor to rub on the pads a little as
> > > the wheel turns without the brake being applied.  Is this true?  how
> > > much rub is right, too much or too little??
> >
> > The pads should rest against the rotor with virtually no pressure.
> > >
> > > 2.  Why has only one pad worn away?  At times I would smell burning 
>brakes but it > was inconsistent.  Is this the sign of a frozed piston?  If 
>so, I do not have an > air compressor and the greese gun method seems awefully 
>messy.  Therefore, my > option would be to take the caliper to a shop and have 
>them see if they can blow > air into the brake line fiting.  this is how it 
>should be done, right??
> > >
> > Your problem description sounds as if the piston is stuck in the caliper
> > and not withdrawing properly.  THis would mean a rebuild of that
> > caliper.
> >
> > > 3. Are there any special tricks, precautions, or techniques in replacing
> > > the rotor?  Do both rotors have to be replaced, or just the bad one?   
>The price
> > > from TRF seems as though it would be cheaper than anything a shop can do. 
>Besides, > with this nice groove, I'm not sure there is much they can do 
>anyway.  Does the  > new rotor need any special preparation prior to 
>installation?
> >
> > If the other is good, just replace the bad one.  The only thing that you
> > need to do before installing is make sure you remove any coatings that
> > have been put on the rotor to keep it from rusting while on the shelf.
> > >
> > > 4.  The replacement of the pads and shims seem pretty straightforward,
> > > again any special techniques or issues the list can
> > > recommend?
> >
> > Just follow the procedure in any of the repair manuals you have.
> > >
> > > 5.  Any other words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > "Drive Safely"  8^)
> >
> > Regards,
> > Joe Curry
> > --
> > "If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
> >
> >  -- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer

-- 
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."

 -- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer

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