Hello to All,
About 2 weeks ago I took the plunge and purchased a 1962 TR3B. I've
lusted for one for 6 years (thats another story as to why it took so long
to buy one). I discovered this list in April of 1995 and have lurked
since that time. I am mechanically challenged but have read some books
and the knowledge off this list has been invaluable and I hope one day to
be able to pay back the help and wisdom received.
After pciking up the car, and having driven the car 3 times (and loving
every single minute of it), I did notice that the brakes were mushy and
required pumping to hold. The PO said he had the brake seals and master
cylinder replaced before I picked it up. So I assumed all it needed was
bleeding. After bleeding the brakes, the pedal improved, but would still
occassionally be soft (although better than before).
Last week, I noticed grinding in the passenger side wheel. I removed the
wheel and saw that the outside pad was gone and a very pretty and painful
groove was on the rotor. As the disc turns one can hear the metal of tha
pad rubbing on the rotor. The second pad behind the rotor was fine with
over 1/4 inch remaining. The pads on the driver side wheel were both
fine as was the rotor. The rotor does rub on the pads when turned even
without the brake being applied.
And now the questions.
1. I assume it is normal for the rotor to rub on the pads a little as
the wheel turns without the brake being applied. Is this true? how
much rub is right, too much or too little??
2. Why has only one pad worn away? At times I would smell burning
brakes but it was inconsistent. Is this the sign of a frozed
piston? If so, I do not have an air compressor and the greese gun
method seems awefully messy. Therefore, my option
would be to take the caliper to a shop and have them see if they can
blow air into the brake line fiting. this is how it
should be done, right??
3. Are there any special tricks, precautions, or techniques in replacing
the rotor? Do both rotors have to be replaced, or just the
bad one? The price from TRF seems as though it would be cheaper than
anything a shop can do. Besides, with this
nice groove, I'm not sure there is much they can do anyway. Does the
new rotor need any special preparation prior to
installation?
4. The replacement of the pads and shims seem pretty straightforward,
again any special techniques or issues the list can
recommend?
5. Any other words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Erkan Hassan
TCF 536 (that feels sooo cool being able to put that there)
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