Lee,
what you descrive will work and is recommended!
I had a rotatry vane type (barrel shaped) pump on the left frame rail. it
was zip tied to the frame (damn DPO).
A 5/16 line to an inline filter to a line to the pump works great. The
line across the front X member under the fan extension helped perculation
problems with the fuel. I also recommend that you sleeve this part of the
line in a larger diameter hose for further insulation value. Finally, a
standard chevy style clear fuel filter just before the carbs finishes the
job. Likely, the only one that will ever need replacing is the one before
the pump but you MUST have that one in place or you will trash the pump.
Most pumps come with a schematic to provide a shutoff of current if your
oil light comes on. This assumes your oil light actually works. I didn't
care. However, in the case of an accident it is important that the pumpo
NOT be allowed to continue running or "an earth shattering kaBOOM (speak in
Martian Mick tone, please)" may ensue.
I tried running the pump off the switched side of the coil (no flames from
transistorheads please, I was young) to solve this problem. Maybe Dan
Masters or someone else can come up with a schematic to do this correctly.
Failing this, an inertia switch of a modern vehicle or PI equipped TR can
be used.
Enjoy.
DAve
PS, if you ever run out of gas (never, ever happened to me so I'm just
guessing, ok?) an electric pump is much much easier to prime.
... And when I went back to a mechanical pump I lost about 20 miles of
range on a tank since the stock pump breaks suction much easier than an
electric
Dave Terrick
69 GT6+
Winnipeg
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