Shane;
I think we are talking about two different things. I had a simular
conversation with my rad guy. The plan he sugested was for a special core
done by a company that did custom work,specializing in gettin more heat out
of the core with the same dimensions. There are MORE rows now in the
roadster(packed closer and with more fins per inch), the same # of rows on
the hanomag(but again more fins) . Anyway , improvements in cooling to the
roadster could be from a clean rad, but the hanomag original was whistle
clean and the differance was dramatic with the new rad!! If these were
cores that would only work with high presure/ temp I would have had
problems. I may have used the term "high efficency" out of context with
current usage. I know there are many rad options avalible, and many of them
are MUCH cheaper. On TR's , I don't really see problems that a new
standard rad can't handle outside of the racetrack. In these two cars
situations, I had reason to specify a higher heat rejection rate. If by
"high effiency" your rad guy was meaning" the core is designed to do more
with less " so to speak, I agree with you ;dont do it. Most rad recores on
the cars I work on cost $150-185. $350 was very high but in this
application, the correct solution.
Don Boyd
----------
> From: Shane F. Ingate <triumph@shiseis.com>
> To: dbji@whidbey.net
> Cc: kehrlich@dyax.com; triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: radiators
> Date: Tuesday, August 04, 1998 10:06 AM
>
> Don Boyd wrote:
> > Sorry to take so long to reply; I was out of town untill yesterday.
In
> >answer to your question, I don't know of a cheap and easy solution
for TR6
> >rad. woes. A rad shop can special order a high efficency core (about
2
> >weeks and $350) that works wonders , but thats about all.
> >
> >> From: Keith S. Ehrlich <kehrlich@dyax.com>
> >> To: dbji@whidbey.net
> >> Subject: radiators
> >> Date: Monday, July 27, 1998 3:09 PM
> >>
> >> Don-
> >> Saw your post re Rabbit radiators for Spit. Any similar
alternatives you
> >> know of for TR6 that give same improved performance?
>
> Having recently recored my TR6 radiator (see my earlier post on fitting
> a 16" electric fan), I was presented with a bewildering array of options.
> To recore the radiotor with a "high efficiency" core would have cost me
> $200 (including tapping mount for the thermoelectric switch and a drain
> screw) ...this is not rocket science and $350 seems awful pricey (maybe
> your price included labour...I removed my radiator and delivered it to
> them).
>
> However, the "high efficiency" cores do not look like the original
"flat-fin"
> radiators, so this is of some concern to the concourse folk. I called
the
> Big-3 vendors and their radiators are not NOS, and have the non-original
> "high efficiency" cores. To have it recored as per original cost me
$225,
> which I feel is worth it on looks alone.
>
> BUT, digging further, the newer "high efficiency" core really will give
you
> additional benefit when running at higher pressures, which is what they
> are designed for (new cars run MUCH higher pressures and temperatures
> than our older cars). In our low-pressure 70's engines, the benefit of
these
> new designes is not only lost, but will probably not cool as well because
> they do not have as many rows as the original cores which offset the rows
> to achieve closer packing. Have a look through the radiator cap of your
> old radiator and the radiator of any new car, and you'll see what I am
> talking about.
>
> Of course, using any new core will be better than the old clogged unit
> you are now using, but in time, you may have some cooling problems.
>
> Maybe all this is BS, I'm just rehashing what I learnt from my radiator
man.
>
> Shane Ingate in San Diego
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