On Tue, 30 Jun 1998, Victor Michael wrote:
> Question: How does one get beyond these rusted or otherwise hard to crack
> connections? Is this just a sign of an old car and should I just expect to
> replace all these parts after having to demolishing them to pieces or the
> sign of an inexperienced "mechanic" or what?
Ouch.
Yes, rusted brake fittings are a sign of old-car-ness. Do you have flare
nut wrenches? They are hexagonal, with one of the apexes removed; you
slip it over the line and down onto the fitting. Gives more available
bearing area for the wrench.
I have also found that 3 days' worth of penetrating fluid and vice-grips
can persuade *really stuck* fittings. I had to plumb new lines from the
master cylinder back to the rear axle on my TR4- and I didn't have enough
money to replace anything other than the lines. LOTS of liquid wrench
(and GM-brand aerosol penetrant) was used during the repair of my brakes!
If you are replacing the line, it's also possible to remove a stuck
fitting by clipping it right near the end, and using a 6-point socket and
a short ratchet. If you use a big one, then you'll only end up busting
something. (even with the 1/4" ratchet I have broken frozen bleeders)
--naturally, do NOT use a cheater bar! Apply more penetrant and go away.
Try again tomorrow. Etc, etc.
(this is not the most fun thing to do to a daily driver, esp. if it's your
only car)
> So now, I've replaced the wheel cylinders, virtually all the brake lines in
> the rear, and given it a new pair of shoes. The driver side drum was harder
> than I expected to get over the shoes, but I figure I might have to wear them
> in? A little smoke at first after braking hard to test the new brakes, but it
> subsides. All seems well. I might have an "actual" mechanic have look.
Do it! Around here brake inspections are free. No excuse not to.
> Question: Since I'm looking to restore (long range) but will be using it for
> summer driving (in the city), would you recommend repairing the leak in the
> Honda radiator or replacing it with a Spitfire radiator? The bonnet, etc will
> be needing work when I get to this stage of restoration, so should I wait for
> the new radiator until then? Is the Spitfire radiator large enough?
It depends- is it a wear leak or a damage leak? If your rad leaks because
of a ding due to rocks, braze it up. If it's pinholes due to corrosion,
best to replace it (or put some black pepper in the antifreeze)
regards,
-Malcolm
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