Anthony,
During my own head problems (also cylinder head problems) I magaged to
purchase an original "STANPART" head gasket. When I opened the package,
a little scrap of white paper fell out. On it was a notation that went
something like this, "After installing the head, torque to the
recommended specification. Start the engine and bring it up to
operating temperature. WHile still warm, re-torque the head to the same
specification. After 500 miles, again retorgue the head." I did this
on my 1500 and my son's 1200 Mk2, and was surprised by the amount of
extra turns that had to be made to gain the correct torque.
Regards,
Joe Curry
Anthony Green wrote:
>
> After removing the head from my '79 spit, I cleaned all the newly
> exposed surfaces, inserted new head and water pump gaskets, and put
> everything back together (losing only 1 washer in the process :-).
>
> You can imagine my dismay when I started the car up and coolant began
> spurting from the head gasket seam!
>
> My current favorite theory is that the cylinder head wasn't bolted
> down tightly enough. I used a torque wrench, which was set at 48lbs,
> to tighten down the bolts in the specified order. 48lbs seemed pretty
> light at the time, but I continued on, thinking that the book knew
> best.
>
> Later today, I plan on exposing those bolts and tightening them much
> further. Does this sound like a servicable plan? Any tips?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Anthony
>
> --
> Anthony Green Cygnus Solutions
> Sunnyvale, California
--
"Thanks to the Interstate Highway System, it is now possible
to travel across the country coast to coast without seeing
anything." -- Charles Kuralt
|