Gee, don't tell my car that POR 15 isn't a finish paint. That's what I
used on my frame and suspension parts when I redid the springs, bearings
, wheel cylinders, etc., back in 1991. It all looks as good as the day I
put it on. What impressed me is that you can hammer on it hard and it
won't chip. Of course, it wouldn't hurt to put on a coat of finish over
top, I just didn't see the need to at the time.
Jeff Johnson
'76 TR6
Bob Otten wrote:
>
> F Underwood wrote:
> >
> > regarding the POR 15 or chassis paint- POR 15 IS NOT a finish paint- it
> > will need to be coated with a more durable finish. I recommend the
> > chassis paint on the sandblasted suspension parts!
> > --
> > Frank Underwood
> > 59 Ford Consul MKII 'lowline' convertible 205E/A 204E 205730
> > Carbodies Ltd 5684 - 089
> > 79 Triumph Spitfire 1500 FM97634UO
> > http://home.aol.com/funder770
> > Atlanta GA USA (well sort of...)
>
> TO All
>
> I have been following some of the por 15 dialog. I have been told that
> por 15 is significantly better than other products on the market.
>
> The question is how does it work, does it stay effective for a long time
> or do you have to repeat it every year or so? Does anyone know if there
> is something that the Navy uses e.g. Naval Jelly.
>
> I only have a little "powdery" rust ion my 73 TR-6. If you use Poe 15
> on the outside walls of the chassis how, other than drilling holes in
> the chassis and use Waxenol how do you protect the inside.
>
> I am sure someone out there has done this type of protecting, can it be
> done in the garage, I would prefer not to have an outside shop do it.
>
> Thanks for your anticipated HELP.
>
> Bob Otten
> 73 TR-6
|