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Re: [Fwd: Rust elimination]

To: spitlist@gte.net
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Rust elimination]
From: James <james.carpenter@ukaea.org.uk>
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 1998 11:23:48 +0000
Cc: "george p. richardson" <gprtech@frontiernet.net>, triumph owners digest <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
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Organization: UKAEA
Have to agree with you there, I tried that on my Metro, it took a
year, but the rust started to come back. 

You need to remove all the surface rust, so that you can
check that theirs not pin hole in the mettle, allowing
water and oxygen through.   Have you ever stripped paint away from 
what looks like a small pin hole of rust.  You find it doesn't spread
in a neat circle, rather you get little tracks going in random 
directions.  This is because rust allows water, and oxygen to
travel under the paint, by capillary action.   Paint on metal 
resists longer.  If you cover rust you will find water and
oxygen can travel freely underneath.  It will only take a pin
hole to re-start the process again.  This is why you need to
get rid of rust, because it allows water and oxygen a path
to the surface of the metal.    

Water does not contain any active oxygen, that it the oxygen
it contain is very happy being attached to the hydrogen, you
will have to invest a huge amount of energy to shift it.  If 
I found a way fo getting round this I would be extremely rich, 
and running a car that separated and burnt water.
 
One way to stop rust is to have sacrifice, the best is "Lawrence
R Zink"(Zinc), when placed in a paint, he being a more active chap than
iron will be attach by the oxygen first.  Leaving the Iron in
peace, only thing it when he's dead the oxygen will turn on the
iron again.  Ever seen ships they have Zinc under water, just
in one place though, because water conducts, and so can attract
the rust from a far. 

Happy rust hunting. 
-- 
James Carpenter
Yellow '79 spit wired by a trained marmot

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