Hmmm, is there a new moon or something strange going on? Here I am not only
reading, but replying to triumphs email! Actually, I'l send off an admin
type message shortly.
Anyway, as for the cap bolts, go ahead and reuse them. You will NOT find
appropriate replacements at the local hardware store. What you should do
is make sure the threads are clean, both on the bolts and in the block. If
you can't run the bolt all the way in with just your fingers, take it out
and clean some more. You don't need the lock washers, but you do need a
reliable torque wrench. Make sure the torque is correct. Once you are
satisfied the torque is correct, make sure the torque is correct.
I'm assuming that you will also be checking the end float on the crank, and
checking the condition of the thrust surface on the rearmost journal and the
condition of the thrust washers. Trust me, this is important.
For the front sealing block, it is possible to remove the aluminum sealing
block with the motor in place, clean things up using something like the
Pyroil spray brake cleaner (Hey, they supported SCCA Solo, they deserve a
plug) and judicious application of Permatex Ultra Blue or similar on
reasembly. Try not to tear the gasket too much on disassembly. Actually this
is a bit of a coincidence, as just last week I finally got my Spit Mark 1 on
the road after a year and a half. I had a tremendous oil leak I assumed was
from the interface between the front plate and the sealing block, and didn't
have time to pull the engine and fix it right. Turned out it was just that
one of the oil pan bolts fell out. What is the expression Homer Simpson uses?
mjb.
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