At 09:42 AM 1/26/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Tom:
>
>By the "> cam lobe point" do you mean
>the high point on the distributor
>shaft???
>
==========
Yes, any one of the six.
>Also from your first question here are some
>of the answers:
>
>Did you Change the timing? Timing has not or did not change, I was
> under the impression that the vehicle
> needed to be running in order to see the
>
======= timing mark illuminate.
Certainly best for dynamic timing, for sure.
>
>Did you get all the plug wires back on the right plugs.
>
> Yes I verified it, but there is not any marking on the
> distributor cap to signify which point is number
> one. I am thinking about changing the cap out
> and the rotor.
===========
Put the #1 cylindar at TDC, and both valves closed. Now the rotor should
be pointing to (or closest to) the distributor cap connection that has the
plug wire for cylindar #1 connected.
>Are the plugs "wet" with gas, AFTER you try to start it for a while.
>(just a little gas, OK. Too much = flooded. None, is bad; but then you
>made no changes to the gas system, right?)
>
> The plugs are a little bit wet but as you go from front
> to back they got wetter, but not to the point of gas
> dripping off or the ability to see the gas on the plug.
>
=============
sounds OK.
>
>What about the distributor cap? Any changes there? Rotor?
>
> Cap not changed or rotor, but see above. Will change this
> next if necessary, as there is some small black marks on
> the sides of each cap point.
=================
normal. What would be bad is if there were carbon line/tracks from one
connection to the next or to the edge where the metal is when the cap is in
place.
>
>Look for arc traces inside the cap or on the rotor that might be bleeding
>off you spark.
>
> Some black marks on the inside of the cap, but color should
> they be???
>
========
There should not be any. BUT, the car was running before you started the
work. Spark/Arc tracks would only develop while running, not while you
are working on the points. Also, you do say that you have spark at the
plugs. (Be aware that it is much harder to get a spark in the
compression space of the inside of the cylindar than in free air. The
problem could be weak spark, good enough for open air space but too weak
for inside the cylindar during starting/running conditions)
Also, you can check for the voltage at the hot side of the coil when the
points are open AND when they are closed. To see what drop you have
accross your wiring AND ballist resistor/wire. Should be full battery
voltage (12-14) when open and about 9ish when closed. This all true
EXCEPT while cranking with a good, strong battery. Then the voltage at the
hot side of the coil will be just about 12 volts due to the bypass circuit
for the ballist resistor/wire and the consideration for drop at the battery
due to cranking motor load. (too much info, eh?)
Tom Howard
Lakeside Union School District
('72 Triumph GT6, and a good bit of USA iron)
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