Gano, Ken wrote:
>
> I am 9/10ths through a "Schaller" conversion. Not a big project, you will
> need a TR4, etc. rack and pinion and the tie rod ends need to be shortened.
> The threads are "rolled" so you can't just thread further down and cut off
> the excess. I took them to a machine shop and had them cut out an
> appropriate amount from the middle and weld the good threads back on the
> end. Not something for the faint of heart as the whole integrity of the
> steering mechanism is then riding on the quality of that weld, but I
> trusted the shop (a lot) and decided it was cheaper and easier than having
> two whole new pieces machined.
>
> I bought the rack and pinion off the net for $125.00 and had less than
> $10.00 in other materials. No real magic to the mounting bracket. I
> certainly wouldn't pay someone else to fab the bracket. It's nothing more
> than an piece of 3" channel bent and welded to fit.
>
> The connection is straight forward enough. You will need 2 TR6
>shafts,
> (really just two of the splined "t" shaped pieces) and two universal joints
> to tie the whole thing together. I got a flex shaft coupler and two
> universal joints from he local power transmission supplier (Browning Mfg.
> co. #CJF-2-5/8" and UJ12-5/8") which worked fine, but you could do the
> same thing with two splined shafts and the coupler from a TR6, like Shaller
> describes.
>
> the last 1/10th has proven problematic. I really don't understand the
> slip ring arrangement Shaller discusses and don't understand why he would
> suggest that you could run the horn wire and not the turn signal wires. I
> really don't understand how the tube down the middle can be held in place
> after it is shortened. Any thoughts on that would be appreciated.
>
> Good luck. I'll be interested in hearing how it works for you. I
>also
> was unaware that anyone was selling a kit. Any information you could send
> along on that would be helpful.
>
> Ken Gano
> kengano@advant.com
> TR3A TS57756 (in pieces)
> ----------
> > From: EPaul21988@aol.com
> > To: TRIUMPHS@autox.team.net
> > Subject: TR2 RACK AND PINION CONVERSION
> > Date: Saturday, March 15, 1997 8:54 AM
> >
> > List,
> >
> > Does anyone have any experience or familiarity with the rack and pinion
> > conversion kit offered by the firm called PROTEK, located in Oxon,
> England ?
> >
> > They advertise in TRaction. The kit is described as 'bolt on'. I am
> > considering purchasing a kit for installation on my TR2 project.
> >
> > Anyone out there who has performed the conversion described by Bob
> Shaller in
> > his book? What's a reasonable cost estimate to use Shaller's method
> > assuming you have someone else do the fabrication work required? At 470
> > pounds I wonder if the kit might not be just as cheap.
> >
> > I've seen several of the cars from the DCTRA with the conversion done
> with
> > Shaller's method and the owners always reported being delighted with the
> > results. A TR friend here started on a 'Shaller' conversion but
> reported
> > not enough detail in the description to complete the task, so he quit.
> >
> >
> > Bob Paul
> > TS45738L"O"
> > TS7280L
The slip ring is because you *can't* hold the tube in place after
it's shortened, and there is no hole for the wires to come out of the
steering box. The slip ring allows a connection to the horn wire that
can be rotated.
George Richardson
'57 TR3, TS15559L
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