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Re: Spitfire wiring and general paint questions

To: sean_johnson@milacron.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Spitfire wiring and general paint questions
From: KVacek@aol.com
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 1996 22:35:38 -0400
In a message dated 96-07-24 12:42:07 EDT, you write:

<< With the large areas involved, I don't want to polish by hand.  Is there 
 someone out there familiar with buffing machines that can guide me thru a 
 procedure for removing the oxidized paint and polishing what's left? >>

If you have access to a dual-action (random orbit) buffer/polisher, use it
with rubbing compound.  Thin the compound with water to a pancake batter
consistency or even lighter, and use only enough to spread (with the buffer)
over a small area, maybe 2' x 2', or less.  Buff till shiny -- if still dull,
add polish or maybe just a bit of water.  Keep the buffing head clean (not
caked up) by holdiing a screwdriver (or a buffer cleaning wheel if you have
one) against the head periodically while it's spinning.  If you have deep
crazing, you MAY be able to lightly sand with 600 Wetordry paper, ON A
SANDING BLOCK, with running water, then buff.  Watch out, though, if the
paint is old and heavily oxidized, it may be pretty thin and you could go
through to the primer.

I'd recomend that you stay away from straight rotary buffers unless you've
got experience, and that experience can cost quite a few burned edges and
ruined paint jobs to get it right ...  IF you have a PNEUMATIC rotary buffer,
you can do OK, by keeping the air flow low to limit the power -- these work
pretty slick, and can polish faster than the DA (random orbit) type.

Sound easy enough?  Good luck !!!

-Karl

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