Daniel, we fixed ours by getting new ring for
flywheel. It is a little pounding to get old one off.
To get new one on we froze the plate in freezer for 2
days, then just before assembling, we heated the ring
to 450 in oven. Very quickly we pulled out freezer
piece and hot ring and got them together. If you do
this in floor in front of stove, be SURE to put
something down to protect floor before start, else
your wife will get the remodeling she always wanted
with new tile and all :-)
--- Daniel L Parrott <parrotthead01@comcast.net>
wrote:
> I thought I solved by starter troubles by getting a
> high torque starter, but
> it is worse now than before.
>
> Every once in a while (1 out of 20 starts), the old
> stock rebuilt starter
> would just spin freely when I tried to start the
> car. Trying once or twice
> again, the starter would then engage the flywheel
> and the car would start
> right up. This restart cost me 5 seconds at the
> South East Regional in 2002
> Gymkhana and got me a third place in my class.
>
> Thinking that the starter shaft or starter teeth
> were worn to the point that
> they couldn't engage, I got another stock rebuilt
> from VB. Same symptoms.
>
> So last year I opted for one of those high torque
> starters, thinking that
> with the stock starter, the starter teeth engage the
> backside of the
> flywheel. If there were flywheel teeth problems,
> then it should also be on
> the backside (away from the engine) side of the
> flywheel.
>
> Since the high torque starters appear to engage the
> flywheel at the front
> (engine) side of the flywheel. I thought that I
> would have a better chance
> of a clean start. No so. Now about 50% of my
> attempts to start are greeted
> with a high speed "whirr", with no engagement of the
> flywheel. It seems to
> be worse the colder the car is and the longer it has
> been since I've driven
> it last. But it is defiantly worse now than with
> the stock rebuilt VB
> starter.
>
> Moving the stick shift from 1st to second and then
> to reverse seems to help,
> but it still may take several attempts to get the
> car started.
>
> So, do I need a new flywheel also? How do I tell?
> I guess it would entail
> pulling the starter and inspecting the flywheel
> teeth as I turn the engine
> over by pushing the car while it was in gear? I had
> the engine rebuilt four
> years ago, and Larry (my mechanic) said that the
> flywheel was fine.
>
> If I do need a new flywheel, which one would be
> best? A lightweight aluminum
> one (VB) or a cut down steel one (PRI), or is there
> another option? I have
> upgraded the car to include a Bell 4-2-1 header and
> a Weber downdraft for
> some extra kick.
>
> It's not critical, but ideas would be of help here.
>
> TIA
>
> Dan Parrott
> Savannah, Ga
> 1980 Triumph Spitfire "PJ"
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