One of the 'tricks' we used back in the reciprocating powerplant days was to
use hydraulic fluid down the carb(s) throat while at 75%. Nasty stuff,
atomized cherry juice. Cleans the entire fuel path downstream of the intake
valves. Not recommended for powerplants with mufflers. Can't inject to
fast or the fire goes out.
Water is good, but not as good.
On the GE-T64-413 (and -6b) we used water with some slurry mix from GE.
100% Ng, 50% and accelerating Nf, and you'd hork 2 gallons down the intake
with the spray nozzle doohicky on a pressure washer. GAWD! but it cleaned
well. Didn't want it on your skin or in your eyes. But the entire airpath
was neato clean.
For us non-catalytic folks, WD-40 works almost as well, but can promote
burned valves very easily. FWIW, WD-40 is a great diesel engine starter
fluid as well. Not too much!
Nothing beats a flow bench and a honing artist.
John
'75 Spit
-----Original Message-----
From: David Brock <davidb@ilx.com>
To: spitfires@autox.team.net <spitfires@autox.team.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 18, 1999 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: decarburizing(?)
>
>The water trick is what I watched my mechanic friend do in the first weeks
I
>owned Bev- except it wasn't sprinkled in- we actually poured over 2 litres
>(half gallon) through the carb throat over the course of about 90 seconds.
>As long as the revs were kept up, it didn't stall, and the black & white
>smoke from the tail pipe, he said, was the soot and steam, depending on
>whether the engine happened to be revving high or low at that moment.
>
>This cleared up a nagging run-on problem which, he said was due to
>superheated (glowing) carbon deposits in the chambers. Of course, all
>disclaimers apply.
>
>;-David
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: wizardz [mailto:wizardz@maxinter.net]
>Subject: Re: decarburizing(?)
>
>..another method (although I am sure some will balk at it) is to
>sprinkle/sprits
>water down the throat of the carb while the engine is at operating temp.
and
>running.
>...be careful if you do it this way.... too much water too quickly stalls
>the engine
>and can possibly cool the engine components too quickly.
>But at the same time this is what breaks the carbon loose. The warm metal,
>vs the sudden cooling effect
>on the carbon from the water, cracks it and it blows off.
>
>(as usual... no warranty expressed or implied... YMMV my $.02..)
>
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